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PartSelect Number PS271505
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.
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Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!
Removed the front panel and lid.Removed the ring on top of tub and holder.Had to use a rope and pry board to get the agitator off the shaft. Removed the 7/16 cap screw and removed the plastic agitator block.Couldn't get the hub nut off and had to use a chisel to break it off (corroded and a left hand thread).Had to use chisel to free the hub from the center pieces so I could lift out the tub. Then I had to hammer and twist the center piece of the hub to get it off form the transmission shaft.replace in reverse order without any problem once I realize I had a left hand hub nut.
a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.
Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!
Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.
After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.
Followed the instructions from internet videos and diagrams provided by GE behind the electric panel. The hub nut and remnants of the broken hub had to be ground off. As with the other repairers, the grinding presented some difficulty. Particular care must be taken not to grind into the shaft or other parts on it. Not having much experience in fixing appliances, it came as a surprise that the washer functioned normally after the job was completed. The effort took an afternoon and spilled into the evening.
Well first I had to remove the control panel and that was nice because there was a diagram of the washer in there. So after that I just removed the top, front panel of the washer and top of the drum. Since the hub was broken all around I was able to remove the drum without removing the big nut or the part of the hub that was still attached to the shaft. This gave me a little more room to remove the nut and hub. The nut was difficult and tight. I struggled with it for some time and got nowhere. I then realized that the nut was aluminum and so I just heated it up a bit and it came off with little effort. I had to heat up the remaining part of the hub also to get it off.It doesn’t take much heat to get these parts moving. I used a small torch but a heat gun would be better. Also I painted the new hub to try to slow down the corrosion effect water has on the pot metal. I just used some rattle can engine paint I had. I then cleaned all the parts and put it all back together and all is good.
I looked at the instructions for removing the tub that are on the back of the circuit diagram included in the panel behind the controls. I followed the directions. As one of your commenters had noted, the aluminum Hub Nut is practically impossible to get a hold on without a special wrench so I chiseled it off. That was the most difficult and time comsuming part . I found some pieces of the old hub in the drain line and blocking the drain pump. Be sure to check for this before reassembling and using the washer.
grab and yank off agitator ,used a socket to take off hub that covers hub nut and washer,took hub nut off and replaced tub bearing its a washer made of rubber and put new hub nut on pretty easy
Remove agitator. Pry off with screwdriver. Removed agitator hub with socket wrench. Removed tub retaining nut with a pipe wrench and replaced with a new one. Tighten new retaining nut with a pipe wrench and by hitting with a 2 lb. hammer. After tightening, added 4 tub washers, before replacing agitator hub and tightening hex screw on top. Lined up agitator to hub and snapped down securely.
I removed the front cover and the top cover. Then I unplugged all the,wires and removed the hangers. Then removed tub and drum together out the front. After beating on the tub nut for 2 hours and drenching it in liquid wrench I realized that the,tub nut was not going to release. Yes I was turning it clockwise. I bring out my chisel and hammer. After removing the,center shaft I chisel the,tube inward till I could get to the nut. Then I chisel the,tub nut into 3 pieces. It then appeared why it wasn't coming loose,earlier the powders,had gotten below the nut and had it cemenred on. So those youtube videos,are helpful to an extent.
Thanks to some of the others who wrote their repair experiences I was able to get this hub apart, order the parts and get it back together in less than two day. I did have to chisel the aluminum nut and some of the zinc hub off from the shaft like others had said they did. It was time consuming and all I can think of while I was beating the heck out of the chisel was what where they thinking of when they designed this washing machine. I must thank Parts Select for getting the parts out the next day and having a great web site that has a place for exploded views of the appliances and customer repair comments.
Well finally after breaking through all the rust, (12 yr. Old washer), demolishing the coupler and cutting off the hub nut. We thoroughly cleaned everything with simple green and a power washer. After getting the machine all back together and then remembering where the "dogs" went I am still questioning whether or not the hub nut is tight enough. Nothing that we read on-line told us anything about the torque of the hub nut. We plugged everything in and there is still a small leak coming from just under the tub seal. We torqued the hub nut one more time and now there are no leaks. We did grease the seal. Overall I figured out I saved over $ 600. I was amazed at how fast the parts were delivered from part select. So the only parts I replaced were the tub seal, hub nut and coupler. We are extremely happy with this diy repair and the part select website. Diy done by myself a 67 year old female and 62 year old male. We have never attempted to fix a washer before.
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