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PartSelect Number PS269790
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the water level pressure switch and the water inlet valve to test parts for proper operation with an ohm meter. Electrically, the switches seemed to work fine so I thought it was probably a mechanical water valve problem. I ordered and replaced both parts anyway just to be sure and potentially save time.
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I replaced both the tube and the pressure switch and still no luck. turns out that i didn't need either part. the little box that the tube hooks on to at the bottom left of the tub had a clog in it. we disconnected the tube from the switch and just blew through it. the clog broke loose and my washer works again!! decided that i was leaving the new parts on the machine. one less thing to worry about in the future.... ????
First I removed the 4 screws that held the element in place. I pulled it out, and than I decided to check on the hose that was attached to the water level pressure switch, so I opened the front of the washer and sure enough, all I had to do was clean the hose attached to the water sensor, and as it turned out, I really did not need to change the water sensor, but at least I have a water level pressure switch, water sensor just in case I really do need to change it.
1. Noticed there was and obstruction in the air line that feeds the water level pressure switch. Cleaned out the air line but still had intermittent problem with flooding.2. Evaluated the fill solenoid valve with meter and was functioning properly2. Evaluated pressure level switch with meter and noticed that the switch was not changing state as it should when the water level is increasing. Replaced the level pressure switch, but still had problem.4. Noticed the air line was damaged and had a hole that prevented pressure from building up. Replaced the air line and all is good!
Instead of calling a repair man, we decided to look up the problem on the internet. We found that other people had the same problem on a website such as this. We narrowed it down to 2 parts. I opened up the panel on the washer where all the controls are (only 4 screws). Inside the panel was a diagram of the washer. We thought it would most likey be the Water level Pressure Switch. I found the part right away and removed it, I removed two connectors. It was really easy. We ordered the part online and it came really quick (within two days). I installed the new part(Water level pressure switch) and tested it. The washer worked perfect and did not overflow. We tested it again with a load of laundry. Everything was good. We saved a lot of time and money by fixing it ourselves. We did not have to wait around all day for a repair man and the part was under $30.00. I am happy the way it all turned out.
Unplug the appliance first! I removed the front panel and then the top panel with the lid by removing the two screws in the front and pulling up and out and unplugging the electrical connector. I then removed the 4 star screws from the top of the control section. The pressure switch is removed by pressing down on the tab and rotating it. I installed the new pressure switch and connected the three wires one at a time. I then re-routed the new hose and connected both ends. I reassembled everything and tested the new sensor by allowing the machine to fill with water. It now works properly.
Unplugged washer. Removed four screws on the top panel, unplugged and removed old water level pressure switch (which was visually broken), replaced with new part, put the top panel back on, re-connected power, and tested to make sure that the washer would now fill to Extra-Large. Worked!
Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!
First, I removed the four screws to expose the control panel. Then I removed both of the wiring connections on the switch, unscrewed the two screws holding the switch, and removed it carefully. Take the time to look at the old switch because it does not simply lift off the panel. It has a sliding lock to keep it in place on the panel and you must be careful when you remove it or install a replacement. The new switch installed easily, so I reconnected the power and started the washer. Bingo!
We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.
the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.
I removed four hex screws from the top of the washer. I found the water level pressure switch and removed the dial. I turned it to remove it from the holding bracket. I removed both wires one at a time and placed them in the new switch one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up. I put the new switch in place and put the top back on using the hex screws. The dial was replaced. When I tested the dial I found that the dial did not match up to the water settings. They didn't even come close. Although the numbers were close on the switches, they were different. I had to remove the new switch and put the old one back on until I can locate the correct switch for my washer.
1) Unplug empty washing machine2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)7) Set old pressure switch to the side8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod
unplug machine and turn off water at the valve. the pressure switch is located behind the water level control knob. remove the knobs from the panel, then remove the panel on the top back of the machine and remove the wires from the pressure switch. unplug switch. attach wires to new switch and plug into place. replace panel and replace all the knobs.turn on the water valve and plug into outlet.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. put the new part in and that was it.
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