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PartSelect Number PS267529
This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as possible with as little noise as possible.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
i removed the scews just above thr opened dryer door, i was then able to swing the dryer top cover back. i then removed the lower front panel screws ,the the screws securing the front of the dryer ( where the door is ) and removed it. there are just 2 wires to disconnect. after the front is removed you gain full access for drum removal, remove the belt make sure the wires are not in the way and remove the drum.i also used a vacuume to clean the inside of the dryer. the front drum slides are very easy to replace only 2 screws each.remove old parts install new parts then just put the dryer back together in the reverse order i took it apart. after re-assembly i turned the dryer on it was so quiet running my wife and dogs were very happy. ps. i just want to thank the people at partselect for having all my parts in stock and for the speed in which i received them. other than having to repair my dryer it was a very pleasant experiance.
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We live in a Condominium, space is tight especially in the Utility room where the washer/dryer are located. Turned dryer breaker off at the electical panel. Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer vent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect.
The repair was done as follows:1. Removed the door2. Removed the two screws securing the top panel then removed the panel.3. Removed the two screws securing the front panel then removed the panel.4. Removed the screws securing the left side panel then removed side panel and the two leveling feet.5. Tipped dryer over on its back (you will want to protect your floor, the four screws that attach the heater unit protrude through the back).6. Disengaged the belt tensioner and removed the belt and the drum.7. Removed the three Torx screws securing the drum bearing to the drum and discarded old bearing.8. Removed the four screws securing the bearing retainer to the heater unit.9. Removed the four screws securing the heater unit and two sensor wires.10. Lifted heater unit just high enough to remove bearing retainer. Discarded bearing retainer.The new drum bearing kit is supplied with self tapping screws. I installed the screws into the bearing parts to tap the holes and then removed them prior to assembly.11. Installed new bearing retainer to back of heater unit using the supplied screws. Install the four screws by hand, finger tight.12. Re-attached heater unit and tighten screws.13. Re-attached sensor wires.14. Tightened the four bearing retainer screws.15. Attached new drum bearing to drum using the three supplied Torx screws. I used tape to hold everything together while installing the screws. Tightened the Torxscrews.Next I used a vacuum to remove all the lint from inside the dryer. I also used a small plastic putty knife to remove the caked on lint on the impeller blades.16. Inserted drum bearing into bearing retainer.17. Installed drum belt and belt tensioner.18. Installed left side panel and feet.19. Replaced the two grey and two white slide bearings on the front panel. They just slip onto a small post and slide into a slot.20. Installed front panel. (Rotate drum to help with installation)21. Installed top panel and door PROBLEM SOLVED!
If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
The weight of the front section of the drum in the dryer rides on 4 slim pieces of plastic. remove the screws that hold down the top of the dryer are in the front door at the top at each corner. remove the top, then remove 2 screws that hold down the front of the control panel to the cabinet at the base. remove the 2 screws at the of the front corners of the cabinet to separate the front door section from the rest of the dryer.Watch out for the wires the connect the door to the rest of the dryer. if you replace the bearing at the back of the dryer you need to take two screws out at the base of the cabinet one from each corner to let the sides of the cabinet to spread out and let the drum pass though the front of the dryer cabinet. the belt has to come off the motor by lifting it up an sticking your hand in under the drum and working it off the end of the motor. replaced the parts ad the dryer works like new.
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.Remove the two screws holding the top down.Disconnect two wires from door switch.Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.Remove the drum.Label the wires then remove the heating element.Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.I will describe how I did it.Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.Put belt on drum.Install drum and belt.Reverse disassembly.When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
First I removed the top of the unit and the front cover which allow me to remove the drum. Then I removed the worn parts, and installed the new parts.
I removed the top by removing the four screws holding the top on. Then I could access the screws holding the front of the dryer (including the door) on.I removed the back panel so I could slip the belt off the idler pulley. There was also a small panel covering the back of the drum bearing. I removed the clip holding the drum bearing shaft in place. Then the entire drum assembly with the drum bearing was removed by shifting the drum toward the front and lifting it out.I removed the drum bearing assembly by taking out the three screws holding it to the drum.Once I received the drum bearing kit I reassembled it in reverse order.The idler pulley had a clip holding the pulley on the shaft. I removed the clip, took off the old pulley and replaced it with the new one, replacing the clip. Then I rethreaded the drum belt around the motor shaft and ilder pulley and put the panels back on.
I've always heard it was a simple job to replace the belt and that would solve the problem. I'd defer to others online when they suggest to replace the rear bearing - they are totally right about that suggestion. My bearing basically fell apart in my hands. Not sure if I needed a belt or not, but it's worth replacing while you are tearing the thing apart. It took way longer to tear apart than to put back together. The parts and prices from PartsSelect were perfect. The parts were received in 4 business days as they said and were perfect replacement parts.
First i took the top cover off2nd i took the front cover off disconnected the wires but make sure that you mark the wires first. 3rd I pull the drum forward removed the three scews holding the rear bearing .4th I remove the four screws holding the bearing bracket from heating element.To remove the bracket you might have to remove the heating element i only remove three screws and was able to put my hand behind it and pull the bracket out.To put back just go in the reverse order.note: get some one to help you.
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs) 1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door. 2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed. 3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside 4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully 5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly 6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time. 7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas 9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into place. 14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the topRemove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each sideRemove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes offLift drum out of dryer Use the torx bit to remove the bearingIf you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housingThis is the perfect time to remove all dust bunniesRe-install everything in reverse order
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!
Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryerMy belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORKTake careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel. ( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of 2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws ) Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragileHelpful hint. At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in
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