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PartSelect Number PS266776
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the topRemove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each sideRemove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes offLift drum out of dryer Use the torx bit to remove the bearingIf you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housingThis is the perfect time to remove all dust bunniesRe-install everything in reverse order
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I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first! Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it. I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel. I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.Put on the top panel and done!
Disconnect Power from the DryerRemove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.Removed the three screws that held the bearing assemblyon the back of the drum.Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner(this is probably the hardest part).Put the front and top back together. Turned the power back on. Job done
I had to remove all screws from the back of the dryer, control panel, and one side. Pulled top off. Took out two screws that held front door panel on. Disconnected 3 wires into door and completely removed door panel. Disconneted pink wire from heating element then slide belt off drum as I removed the drum. Pulled off the old completly worn out drum bearing sleeve and replaced it. Replaced drum slides as some were worn through. Had a little trouble getting belt back on when I reconnected everything but for 50 dollars in parts and shipping I have working dryer, so I would say it was well worth the effort.
Unplugged dry cord . Removed top and front cover. Removed drum to replace rear Bearing. Reinstalled drum replaced front bearings and sleeve. Reinstalled both covers and plugged in.
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