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PartSelect Number PS263965
This dishwasher door gasket is compatible with those models having a two ear housing and a square spacer. It's gray and it creates a water tight seal around your dishwasher's door.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed door seal and corner baffles by hand (no tools required). Replaced same parts with minor tweaking to get proper alignment of new seal. Strongly recommended: remove dishwasher trays in order to get head and shoulders inside for proper view of seal placement.
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Shut the power off. Removed 7 screws off from the back of the front door. Lifted the panel carefully from the door and rested on the front panel. Removed the old door gasket and Gasket insert and cleaned the area.Soaked the new door Gasket in warm water for few minute before use.Inserted the door Gasket starting from the top in the groves and pressed it down. It was little difficult to see at the back to insert the Gasket insert. Used small pocket mirror to insert the Gasket in place. Put back all the screws. Worked out good. No more leak.
Pulled out the old seals paying particular attention to their orientation. Cleaned the mounting areas and installed the new seals by hand. This unit is more than 20 years old and is working just fine. Part Select made it easy to find what I needed and the parts arrived in two days.
I took the inner door panel off as described by others on this website, cleaned out all the gunk left by 27 yrs of use, and replaced the door gasket and tub baffles. A Phillips-head screwdriver was required to remove the door panel, but no tools were required to replace any of the parts I ordered. I didn't find it necessary to soak the door gasket in warm water as it was pretty flexible right out of the package. I recommend stretching the gasket slightly while pressing it into the groove, particularly around corners, or it will end up being too short at the end. The rinse aid tank had also been leaking Jet-Dry for a long time, so I cleaned that mess up as well and tried to replace the tank. Unfortunately, the new tank did not fit my model of dishwasher even though this website and GE's stated that it did. The shaft on the tank that pokes through the inner door panel to the inside of the dishwasher was too short because >2 mm of it was taken up by a thick rubber washer and a hard plastic collar (fused to the shaft to hold the washer in place) that had not been part of my original rinse aid tank. PartSelect was very good about refunding me for the incorrectly identified rinse aid tank and stated that they would contact GE about correcting this error on their website as well. I therefore cleaned up my original rinse aid tank, rinsing out all Jet-Dry residue inside it, and put it back into the inner door panel. I researched this part and found that GE has redesigned it twice since my dishwasher was manufactured in 1985 -- my original part is no longer available anywhere. So, I will just not use Jet-Dry and will maybe upgrade to a dishwasher powder that includes rinse agent (e.g., Cascade Complete). Replacing the gasket and tub baffles and cleaning up my original rinse aid tank stopped the leak for less than the cost of a repairman's service call and diagnosis fees -- it would have cost me 3X more if he had provided the parts and done the repairs! Replacing my dishwasher was out of the question as they do not make them like they used to (i.e., no microchips or motherboards to fail in a few years) -- this is the first problem I've had with my dishwasher in 27 years! As a side note, I also learned from my research that my front door panel insert is reversible. I was able to remove a side trim piece, slide out the panel, and turn it over so the color is now white rather than the outdated almond. It's like I have a brand new dishwasher that is ready to go for another 27 years.
First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I did this repair myself (female).
The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.
Replaced door seal, right and left corner seals. Piece of cake. A five minute job.Thanks
On the GE Pot Scrubber 1120 model you do not even need tools to replace the parts that we replaced. We just pulled the corner baffles out and cleaned the corners before placing the new baffles in. For the door gasket, we just pulled the old gasket out and put the new one in the track that the old one came out of. We didn't have to take any door screws out to replace the gasket at all. It was very easy to do and no more leaks. You will have to push against the door to get it closed tightly the first time you use it since the new gasket has not been flattened by use. I ordered the gasket insert and used it since we had it but for this model we didn't really need it. I would suggest not ordering one for this model.
Pull the old Door Gasket out.Then figure out, how the new one should fit in the door.Push the new one softly in, and the repair was perfect done.
I removed the screws from inside door panel. Took door panel out. Noted the way the old gasket was placed, removed it and replaced with the new gasket. Replaced the door panel. Felt pretty proud of myself until I realized that the door lock wouldn't work when I was going to run it. I have now removed the door panel again and am trying to get the door lock lever to work.
removed old gasket and replaced with new one and gasket insert, which i didn't have to begin with. Now works perfectly. Thanks partselect.com!
Door seal was brittle and flat.Not a hard job to do just having to keep making sure the seal did not pop out on the bottom corners of the door. The seal would tare easy so have to be careful. Before you remove the old seal on the bottom of door there is a 4 inch space between the ends of the seal. Mark the spot with marker so you know where to start placing the new seal.Baffles were orginaly put in place with plummer putty, do not use this. Get GE clear seal is the best will hold forever but will come loose with a good tug. easy to clean out when replacing baffles again. Do not use any sealent when inserting the door seal just push into opening. Make sure you support the door when pushing down on door to put the seal in the slots. The hardest part is the bottom corners the seal tends to slip out I found that if I streached the seal over the openings and continued on and come back to the corners it was easier to make the seal slip in.
Very simple job
Took off the old and put on the new. Not complicated at all. Just had to take off the kick plate for the cable.
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