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PartSelect Number PS260690
This is used for the check valve.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I looked for blockage and found none.I took the pump off and hooked power to it in my work shop and it did spin when powered up.We had broken a glass in the washer and thats when the problem started. I did find a few small pieces in the check valve assembly. It did not look bad but for cheap I ordered the part. Ran the washer and it drained on the wash but not on the final. Turned off the power.Slid the wash out where I could get to the power and not unhook the water. Turning off the power I disconnected the wires and carefully turned the power on and touched them to the pump and forced it to drain knowing that the pump worked I thought it would at least empty the water. I touched the wires to the pump and the board clicked the water drained. Hooked it back up. Ran it and has been working great since.
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Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.
Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.
Turned off electical and water - took fillter screen out of inside, unscrewed cap took out valve and replaced it
First, I drained the water from inside the washer and removed it from under the sink. I wasn't sure if I had a clog in the drain line, so I dissasembled the drain under the sink and cleaned that as well. While cleaning under the sink my wife found her $4000 dollar ruby that fell out of her mothers ring a couple weeks earlier. It must have dripped out of the trap while I had water draining everywhere. Put drain back together and moved on to the dishwasher repair. Parts were easy to install after laying the dishwasher down on its front to access the bottom back side. Hooked everything back up and slid it back under the countertop and away it went. Had one small leak after running (water in line wasn't tight enough). A twist with a pair of pliers and that was resolved. Fast shipping by the way! I paid a little more for the exit washer than I wanted to, but with shipping only from one source and delivery of parts at the same time made downtime as little as possible. I'm sure I saved $100 dollars or so by using this website for parts and tech info. And recovered a precious stone to boot.
After reading about this problem on an appliance repair forum, I learned that it is usually caused by a faulty piston valve. The valve is located under the rear screen filter and can be removed with your fingers. The parts arrived very quickly and we saved $$$ by not having to pay for a service tech visit and "mark-up" on the replacement parts.
I could not have accomplished this repair without this site. It lead me not only to the problem but what parts would be needed. Since the pump worked okay I decided the water must be draining back from the hose since the bottom of the washer was lower than the discharge point of the drain hose. I thought there must be a check valve someplace. When I found PartSelect it was easy to go to the brand of dishwasher, model number, symptom and lots of advice from people with the same repair in the past. I decided to go with the piston and nut assemble (check valve) and the valve flapper. On the web site there was a blowup diagram that showed where the part was and advice on how to properly install the parts. When I looked at the old check valve and the new one you could easily see that was the problem. Replacing the flapper was added insurance.
Removed screws on the drain pump filter screens at the back of the dishwasher, unscrewed the check valve, screwed in the replacement unit, and re-affixed the filter screens.I lived with the drain problem for 6 months and reviewed on line trouble shooting which all pointed me to a pump or solenoid valve problem. I pulled the unit and disassembled everything before noticing that the rubber washer/stopper at the top of the check valve had erroded away and was not preventing water from pumping back into the cabinet when the drain pump kicked on. Always check the condition of this check valve first if you dishwasher is not draining properly. It was so easy once I found the bad part.
Open door, remove lower wash rack, remove 4 screws holding screen in rear of inside tub with 1/4 inch socket. Unscrew piston and nut assy for checkvalve, sounds like a mouthful but it is only 1 part. Checkvalve has 2 small ears on it which allow you to twist it out, it has treads on it. Flapper on check valve flapper rots away and water pumps back into tub instead of being routed to drain line to garbage disposal. Part with shipping was just over $20.
removed screen at back of dishwasher from the inside. Twisted piston & nut assembly out by hand and replaced with new one. Very, very simple. Dishwasher works perfectly now.
took out 4 screws pulled piston out and changed put back together. very easy and inexpensive!! thanks
After two repair people were unable to solve the problem, I read similar stories in your forum and decided to replace the check value as a last ditch effort. Looking at your diagrams it seemed like an easy repair. Removed four screws with nutdriver and replaced value by hand. Ran washer three times and water drained completely. Still puzzled that this wasn't the first thing a repair person would check.Websight very helpful.
Removed the 4 screws holding the filter screen assembly in the back of the tub. This exposed the Piston and Nut assembly which unscrewed fairly easily.Replaced with the new part, put the filter screen assembly back in place ran the machine. The machine still stops with the blocked arm message - just not as frequently. The web researched fix with the piston and nut assembly replacement was obviously not the final answer. I am now out of options I believe except to bite the bullet and get a new machine. Any other suggestions are welcomed.
Remove shield in rear. Unscrew valve using hand. Screw new valve in place.
Remove the back filter to access check valve assembly. Twist check valve assembly to remove, not significant deterioration of rubber cap. Install new assembly. Re-install filter. Super-easy and effective!
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