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PartSelect Number PS260690
This is used for the check valve.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.
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Found a forum on the internet that said the Air Check Valve located under the screen on the bottom of the back wall inside the wash compartment may be the culprit. Took it out by using nut driver to remove screen, and twisting the part out. The seal was deteriorated. Repleacing the part was simply the opposite, and very easy. I also replaced the screen on the floor of the wash compartment because the rubber was deteriorating there too. Here I had to remove the spray arm by carefully prying the locking tabs outwards and lifting the entire spray assembly upwards. Then, then plastic covers need to be unscrewed and removed. The new part had the plastic cage molded into it. So I discarded the old plastic cage. There are a couple of retaining clips that are a little tricky to get off the plastic posts. But, they can be removed by prying a standard screw driver underneath and working them off the post. Do not break the plastic post, and save the retaining rings. The new part does not come with any screws or retainers, so you will need to re-use them. Simply, place the new screen in position, slide on the retaining clips, and screw down the cage. The spray assembly is just slid back onto the shaft and snaps into place. A lot of writing, but was rather simple to do. 15-20 minutes.
Removed 4 screws in washer then removed cover. Then piston and nut assembly which just needs turned loose.Pull out and then,put new one back in,tighten up, put cover back on put 4 screws back in. Then unhooked water line, power cord, drain hose. Pull washer out and drained water out of system with drain hose. put a towel down to catch excess water. Loosen nut at end of drain hose with a pliers, remove flapper put new one back in tighten drain hose . Put washer back in hook water, power and drain hose. Run thourgh cycle and it should work much better.
The lower spray arm unscrews. From inside the dishwahser, put a screwdriver through the tab slots and unscrew the tower from the floor. It's pretty tight for plastic.The upper spray arm has screws on the top of the dishwasher. You must slide the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop to get to the screws. Normally that's just the two screws above the door that screw into the countertop. Pull the insulation back and unscrew the arm from the top of the dishwasher. Reverse to reinstall.Piston and nut assembly for check valve: Inside the dishwasher at the back there are 2 screws that hold a screen down. Remove the screen. Take out the check valve and replace it. It was still functional in mine, it looked like food gunk had built up on it and impeded the check valve action.The flapper chec is a rubber flap in the drain tube that connects to your sink drain. You have to pull the dishwasher out from under the sink to get to the end of the drain tube that connects to the dishwasher. Take the hose clamp loose and remove the drain tube from the dishwasher. Then unscrew the plastic fitting that you just took the drain tube off of. The flapper chec is there. It had turned brittle and didn't flap anymore. It is a similar setup to the rubber seal at the end of your garden hose.
Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.
Disconnect the dishwasher power supply and water connector.Then disconnect the drain hose.Take off the hose from the pump and on the plastic valve is the black valve flapper.Mine was swollen twice the size of the new one.Replace with the new one.You have to pull the dishwasher out and turn it over to do this.The check valve was totally worn out.You must turn the dishwasher back to it's in use position and open up the door.Inside the lower rear wall is a plastic cover with 4 screws remove these and the cover.Then unscrew the piston and nut assembly and remove the check valve.Simply replace with the new parts and reinstall the cover.I replaced the gasket before I reinstalled the check valve even though it looked ok.To do this you need to turn the dishwasher over again and remove the 4 screws dolding the resevoir the check vave is in.Replace the old gasket with the new one and reinstall the new gasket.Do this after removing the old check valve and before intalling the new one.On the bottom inside the dishwasher I noticed the large white gasket on the floor was falling apart so I replaced that also.I'm glad I did because below this assembly there is a reusable plastic filter that was totally plugged that I cleaned and reinstalled before relacing the filter gasket assembly.To do this you must remove the plastic water jet.With a screw driver there are 2 plastic tabs that must be carefully pulled out so you can pull out the water jet.Remove the 2 screws and plastic cover on top off the gasket assembly.Retain the 2 screws but you will not need the cover it is part of the new gasket assembly.There are two clips you need to carefully pry off.Then lift out the old gasket assembly and replace with the new one.Reinstall the 2 screws that held the old cover before and If reinstall the old clips if not damaged.You can purchase new ones but usually not needed.Then gently snap the water jet in place.Put the dishwasher back under the counter and reconnect the power,water line and drain hose.
I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.
Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.
Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.
Changed check valve and valve flapper. Had to pull dishwasher out of cabinet to get to the backside. Removed check valve and replaced valve from inside dishwasher ( all the way at the back, large nut holds in)but had to remove lower assembly from rear in order to change out the gasket. Removed large black flexible tube and replaced flapper valve. Just be carefull sliding hose back over section containing flapper valve. Fairly easy switch out. Took care of problem.
I unscrewed the check valve, tipped the dishwasher on its face, and removed the asembly below it. Then replaced the valve flapper, cleaned out the assembly (broken champagne glass and udder nasties) then put it back the way I found it.Then I put the new check valve on, and started the dishwasher up. 10 screws and $30 worth of parts saved me 400 bones for buying a new dishwasher.If you have sanding water in your dishwasher check these two parts.....that check valve is the culpret.
FILTER GASKET ASM:1. Manually unscrewed the lower dishwasher sprayer from the base of the dishwasher. (The filter gasket cannot come out with this in the way.)2. Using a nut driver, unscrewed the old plastic filter cage in the rear.3. Thanks to a tip from another user on this site, I carefully pried up the metal grommets on the two plastic studs in the front. I did this slowly with a flathead screwdriver, as I was worried about breaking the plastic. (Some plastic did whittle off of the studs from the sharpness of the grommets, but not so much that they were ruined.) Note, the studs look like something that can be replaced if you break them. They are not molded into the tub, as far as I can tell.4. Removed the old (rotten looking gasket). Be careful! The edges around the filter drain are sharp. Used a turkey baster to suck out water from the filter area and wiped away mildew. The filter recess had broken glass in it and some other yucky stuff.5. Easily reversed process with the new gasket. The new one has a lighter color and has the plastic, upside down basket thingy built-in. (No sharp edges). I pushed the metal grommets back onto the plastic studs, working them down as tightly as possible. They seem to be holding well.Piston and Nut Assembly for Check Valve:I wasn't sure I needed this, but ordered it anyway after seeing comments that the seal can corrode.Mine looked ok, apart from food build-up, but I replaced it anyways.1. Removed the screened housing that covers the length of the bottom-rear using nut driver.2. Unscrewed the existing valve manually. It was easy to do. Cleaned area out as best as I could.3. Reversed process with the new part.
First I replaced the flapper valve of of off the water pump. That worked for a couple of days, then the standing water was back. After more research at your site I ran across other person who had the same problem and they ended up replacing the piston and valve assembly. After pulling the dishwasher out I was able to find where these parts were located. The piston's rubber part was half gone. I replaced it and the gasket and another flapper valve. This model has two flapper valves. One difficulty was that you have to replace the screen inside the dishwasher before you replace the housing that the piston fits in. Your site and other folks contributing their stories helphed me to solve our problem. The dishwasher works like new now. Thanks. Ralph Naddeo.
First I looked for blockage and found none.I took the pump off and hooked power to it in my work shop and it did spin when powered up.We had broken a glass in the washer and thats when the problem started. I did find a few small pieces in the check valve assembly. It did not look bad but for cheap I ordered the part. Ran the washer and it drained on the wash but not on the final. Turned off the power.Slid the wash out where I could get to the power and not unhook the water. Turning off the power I disconnected the wires and carefully turned the power on and touched them to the pump and forced it to drain knowing that the pump worked I thought it would at least empty the water. I touched the wires to the pump and the board clicked the water drained. Hooked it back up. Ran it and has been working great since.
Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.
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