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PartSelect Number PS244479
This 8 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This 6 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)! Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.
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1. Pulled out drawer2. Vacuumed dust, etc. under stove3. Reached under stove to rear and pulled plug4. Pulled the stove out away from wall so I could get to back5. Removed 5 screws that retained the back of the control panel6. One by one, I removed each wire from an old control and pushed it onto the same pin on the new control - did same for all 4 burner controls7. Removed the knobs8. Removed 2 screws from the front panel for each old control and removed the old controls9. Pushed each of the new controls into place on the panel and reused screws to secure them in place10. Cut the long control stems using 2 pliers per instructions to match length of old controls.11. Used knob adapters provided to mate the old knobs to the new control stems12. Plugged the stove in and tested the burners13. Unplugged and replace the panel back with original screws14. Moved stove back into place15. The right front burner was the one most used, so I replaced the connector for that burner.16. That connector came with instructions that I followed - cut the wires to the old connector, splice the wires to the new connector wires using supplied wire nuts and shrink tubing.17. Plugged the stove back in18. Replaced drawer - job complete - stove like new
Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.
So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!
Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!I now know where to go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!
I had called GE for the part numbers from the 1970's GE range. Then entered the part number on this web site. The cost from GE for four reflector pans/rings would have been $130. The price I paid here was $60. Both prices included the shipping. I received the order in a few days from Fed Ex. Wrapped in original GE plastic.Thank you so much.
I just replaced them.
I unplugged each element from the terminal it was plugged into and then plugged the new element in. I also replace the drip pans and trim rings while I was at it.
Customer service is great. Fast shipping. Great communication. I have them bookmarked from a previous order. Same good service as the first time. Thank you.
Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.
First I turned the breaker off the Range. Second I removed the two screws that held the element inplace. Then I pulled element front until I could get to the two screw which connected the wires and removed then. Removed old Bake element. Installed new element by connecting the two wires and then pushed the element into place and secured it by reinstalling the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and tested. This is a very easy item to replace and takes very little time.
The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.
By cleaning the connectors on the stove burners I have kept the stove alive for 20 years, but one stopped working because the terminal block connectors had burnt out. It was a simple one-machine screw holding in the original, so I swapped them, then took off the panel behind the controls to plug in the new connectors from the prewired terminal block. The rings were just a little touch to convince my wife that we do not yet need a new stove.
I removed the broken coil, took out the old burner pan, put in the new burner pan, and plugged in the new coil. Worked like a dream! Replacing the other burner pans went just as smoothly.
Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach. First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove. Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes). Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.Recent.Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other. ANYBODY can do this
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