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PartSelect Number PS244475
This 6 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This 8 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)! Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.
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1. Pulled out drawer2. Vacuumed dust, etc. under stove3. Reached under stove to rear and pulled plug4. Pulled the stove out away from wall so I could get to back5. Removed 5 screws that retained the back of the control panel6. One by one, I removed each wire from an old control and pushed it onto the same pin on the new control - did same for all 4 burner controls7. Removed the knobs8. Removed 2 screws from the front panel for each old control and removed the old controls9. Pushed each of the new controls into place on the panel and reused screws to secure them in place10. Cut the long control stems using 2 pliers per instructions to match length of old controls.11. Used knob adapters provided to mate the old knobs to the new control stems12. Plugged the stove in and tested the burners13. Unplugged and replace the panel back with original screws14. Moved stove back into place15. The right front burner was the one most used, so I replaced the connector for that burner.16. That connector came with instructions that I followed - cut the wires to the old connector, splice the wires to the new connector wires using supplied wire nuts and shrink tubing.17. Plugged the stove back in18. Replaced drawer - job complete - stove like new
I did the repairs by first shutting down the power and then checking with a tic tester to make sure power was off. Removed one burner at a time by unscrewing the holding screw on the hinge and then removed the ceramic insulator cover and then disconnected the wiring. I drew a schematic for the 3 wire leads (240 volts). Unscrewed them and removed the burner. Cleaned stove top, put burner back in reverse order. Very easy project. Stove top looks as good as it did when it was new.
Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.
It took about 20 min to flip the breaker off and remove the 2 hinge screws and disassemble the 3 wires on each burner and reattach same to new burners. All the hardware was included with the parts went together fast. Flip the breaker back on and everything works perfect.Parts Select was the only place I could find replacement parts for such an old cooktop.Thanks, Jerry
So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!
I had called GE for the part numbers from the 1970's GE range. Then entered the part number on this web site. The cost from GE for four reflector pans/rings would have been $130. The price I paid here was $60. Both prices included the shipping. I received the order in a few days from Fed Ex. Wrapped in original GE plastic.Thank you so much.
I just replaced them.
I unplugged each element from the terminal it was plugged into and then plugged the new element in. I also replace the drip pans and trim rings while I was at it.
Customer service is great. Fast shipping. Great communication. I have them bookmarked from a previous order. Same good service as the first time. Thank you.
Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.
First I turned the breaker off the Range. Second I removed the two screws that held the element inplace. Then I pulled element front until I could get to the two screw which connected the wires and removed then. Removed old Bake element. Installed new element by connecting the two wires and then pushed the element into place and secured it by reinstalling the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and tested. This is a very easy item to replace and takes very little time.
First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.
lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,
The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.
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