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PartSelect Number PS239445
***NOTE: Wiring could be different from original and will possibly need to be installed by an appliance repairperson.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Upon removing the back panel of range with screwdriver to gain access to elelctric clock control. Unit was taken out with the use of a 1/4'' nutdriver. After following included instrucitons with replacement part. Part was an unpluged/pluged in operation. Works great. No service technician needed. Thanks gain.
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The repair went quickly. First, I switched off the circuit breaker. Then, after lifting off the oven door to lighten the stove, I pulled it away from the wall for easy access to the part. I pulled off the oven control knob. WIth my socket wrench, I removed the 6 or so screws from the back cover of the stove. Now, I was able to see the clock timer and switch. Just a few phillips screws held it in place. I removed it, and struggled just a bit to remove the wires from their attachments to the old part. I wired the new part, one wire at a time, carefully comparing the function of the wires, not just the colors of the wires, using the clear and simple diagram that was included with the part. A sharp knife under the edge of the faceplate of the old part allowed me to pry it off and reuse it. Thus, I had my up and down arrows, the labels for clock and timer. It didn't shatter, as I feared. In fact, that faceplate was held on with only a small area of adhesive around the edge. I placed the faceplate from the old part over the front of the new part, alligned it in the opening and tightened it down with the screws I had removed. I replaced the oven knob. I switched on the breaker. The broiler worked, the timer worked. I felt powerful. I unexpectedly impressed my teenage children with my skills here, as I replaced the back cover of the stove, and set it back in it's place then replaced the oven door. The replacement part was the same but with some differences in internal shape. This did not affect the fit. The wiring configuration was not the same. This added to my time as I had never done this before and needed to feel completely confident before proceding. The part came with a clear diagram of the wiring-- ground, line in, broiler, and oven. 4 attachments. The 3 ground wires are joined to one connector in my stove. A careful look was enough to assure me that though my colors were not the same, the basics were the same. I feel this was a simple job. My stove and oven look and work like new. And my husband thinks I'm amazing.
part arrived very quickly. removed the rear cover. removed the old control unit. installed the new(retro fit) unit using the supplied wiring sheet diagram. The whole operation took about 30 minutes. Works great. Thanks PartSelect.
I have been a TV tech for 40 years.I knew the points in the relay where bad after I used a ac volt meter to confirm the problem. Two years ago I unsoldered the bake relay which is on the same board. I disassembled it and cleaned the contacts. This time it was the broiler relay that didn't work. I felt it was time to order the whole assembly before It became obsolete. The part was some what different but the instructions helped in its replaement. Two things were different in the instructions. The line voltage wire in my unit was red, the instruction said it would be black and the bake plug connector had a plastic keyed cover which had to be removed to allow it to plug into the new unit. I used a hair dryer to remove the front touch panel so it could be reused on the new control. It is now working fine. PartSelect was great, Fast shipping and the part was well boxed.
I removed the back to gain access to the control board. Then I unplugged each wire on the old control and plugged it in on the new control - one at a time. Then removed the old control, removed the face from the old control and put it on the new one. Next I installed the new control and replaced the back. Job completed - oven works great.
unpluged unit took out bake element tested element with VOM,reading showed element to be ok. reinstalled element took back off the stove to expose the timer control for inspection and found the High voltage switch points on the bake control to be burnt off.ordered new timer control reversed the dismanteling process to install.my color code on the wiring was different,but I knew white is always nuetral,and black or red can be line,my yellow was bake which was the same in the diagram so my blue for broil had to be purple shown in the diagram.just a shame you can't buy the bake switch separate. Everything is working great !
Pulled stove and unplugged electric cable. Unscrewed the top rear panel. Made a diagram of the wiring (with colors) to match with the new control. Unscrewed the 4 screws holding the control. Removed the plastic faceplate that was on old control and matched it on the new one (in the correct orientation so that it was not upside-down when placed on stove - so you can see the writing is right-side up from the front of the stove. I then screwed it in place and attached the wires following the diagram. I made sure that all the wiring was in the correct place and not pinched anywhere or touching other items. I the put the rear panel back in, plugged the electric cable back in and pushed the stove back in place slowly and made sure that the electric cable was flat on the floor so that the bottom drawer would not touch it when it was opened and closed.The END ! Simple.
The initial symptom involved the heating elements turning off and on rapidly once high temperatures were reached. After cycling power to the range this went away for a few weeks. When the symptom reappeared, it involved the oven-on light turning on and off, even when the oven control was in the off position. This persisted after a power-cycle so I decided to replace the control board. The actual repair was quite easy. The hardest part was removing the sheet with the button labels from the old unit (I ended up inserting a knife and twisting it to separate the adhesive, which is only around the edges) and fixing it to the new unit in the proper position. The latter would have been much easier if I had realized up front that there are handy guide ridges against which to align it! Like another person whose repair story I read, the existing wire colors were not all an exact match. However each connector's function was clearly labeled on the PCB of the old board, so I had no trouble matching them up (line voltage was red, not black, and broil was blue, not purple). The only other difficulty I encountered was that the old yellow bake wire had a plastic guard on the connector and this did not fit in the appropriate hole on the new unit. I merely pried the guard off with a small screwdriver and used the bare spade-connector, which fit in the hole nicely. There was a small amount of exposed wire left, so i wrapped it in electrical tape although I doubt that was necessary.
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