Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?
Thank you for helping make our site better.
PartSelect Number PS238431
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
First I checked the ignitor #28 to see if I got 2 amps with a small amp meter. I removed the bottom oven cover to gain access to the ignitor wires. Note be careful as you need to have the oven come on and you are close to the flame. I got 2.1 amps so I moved onto the temp sensor #43. I used the other story someone wrote about testing the sensor, ohms in ice water vs boiling water. The sensor worked fine. Oh that one is pretty easy. I removed the two small bolts and pull the oven out to gain access to the plug. It's on the right hand side where the back of the light is. Just a few small screws and your in. I just unplugged it and pulled it thru the oven side. The hardest part is getting the plug back thru the hole. I taped a straw to the plug and fished it in the same way I took it out. I wasn't convinced it was the control board aka ERC2 #105. But I bought one and put it in. The install is very simple. UNPLUG the oven. Remove the two small torx screws at the underside of cover that holds the face plate assemble. Lift off the top cover it just pulls off and then lift the face plate cover, not too far about 30 degrees it has small clips on each side that fit into grooves. Oh I took the light out when I took off the top cover so it wouldn't get broke. Once I got the face plate cover unhooked I just set it on the back burners. Now for the wiring. The new ERC2 is a upgraded model so it looks a little different, but no worries. Just notice that both are labeled L1, N, GND, BR, BK and a plug. By the way BR is for broiler and BK is for bake. So if the ignitor works for the broiler; the 2 amp thing; but it won't maintain an on/off flame then chances are its the ERC2. Back to the change out. Write down which colors are label what. Remove the four screws, wires and plug. Pull off the old plastic label face plate it's just held on with glue, just be careful its very thin. Press it on the new on and put the new one (ERC2) in the same way you took out the old one. Look at the front to make sure its centered in the window. Cleaning the compartments while it is all apart is optional. Hold the face plate cover at an angle and clip on one side and then do the other side. Put the torx screws back in, the light next and pop the top cover back on. I plugged in the oven, set it for 400 degress and waited for the set point beep. About 5 mins later maybe less the flame came on again....bingo I guess it was the ERC2 and thats it. Oven fixed........time for pizza and football. Thanks, Partselect for an easy repair, diagrams and ordering experience. Now we can all save on do-it yourself repairs.Kurt PanteraCorona, CA
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
I thought it was the igniter so I examined it. It looked OK so I pulled the oven out and removed panels. I found that the controller had burned the traes on the circuit board. I thought I'd need to purchase a new stove and did some research. Since I'm an electrical engineer I looked at the circuit board and actually pulled apart and repaired the defective relay and put jumper wires on the circuit board and got the broiler working, but since there's a potential fire danger I decided to replace the control board if I could find it. I had goog experience using PartSelect on a dishwasher previously and went to the site. In 15 minutes I could identify the part, saw that it was in inventory, and ordered it... on a Saturday night. The following Tuesday I checked the part tracking and saw it was here and out for delivery. I came home to fine the part and within an hour I had removed the old part (4 screws and 5 faston terminals) and was testing out the fully functional stove. Although I'm sure being an EE helped me, someone with limited experience could have found the defective part and used your excellent site tools to identify and purchase the replacement part, which you had ON THE SHELF. Many thanks, another appliance repaired for $231 rather than >$1000 FOR A NEW STOVE.
Getting to the old unit was easy. However, the wiring arrangements on the new part hardly duplicated the old one, which led to having to splice in a new wire so that it could reach the connector post.. Besides, I never knew that the faceplate was glued to the old part. Without wanting to waste any more time and/or wait for a new faceplate, the old one was carefully removed and re-glued. Not a perfect job, but unless you were part of the repair, it is almost impossible to see. The stove now seems to be working fine.
Most everything pretty straight forward EXCEPT the terminal connectors were in a different order and placed in different locations. One wire from the original wire harness would not reach with the new arrangement had to lengthen wire to install. Make sure you write down the connector name on the circuit board and what color wire goes to it, rather than just the color code order because they may be different. The new module mounting plate was substantially thicker than the original requiring different screws to reinstall. Also, the plastic face plate is not part of the replacement. If yours is worn, you might want to buy a new one as well. Before re-assembly, make sure all the clear internal surfaces that show are nice and clean (like the front of the display and the back of the faceplate.
Disconnected the gas line and pulled the stove out from the wall--found a whole new world under my stove---ugh! It took longer to clean the stove and floor than replace the old part. Put the new timer and key pad cover on and reconnected the gas line. The stove works perfectly. I probably saved about $200 doing it myself. I'll order from your company again--thanks.Tom D.Upper Arlington, OhioGo Bucks!
All brand logos are trademarks of their respective owners.
The PartSelect logo is a Registered Trademark of Atlantic Laundry Centres, Ltd.
Copyright © 1999-2017 , Eldis Group Partnership. All rights reserved.