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237421-1-S-GE-WB24X829          -Secondary Door Switch
237421-1-S-GE-WB24X829          -Secondary Door Switch 237421-2-S-GE-WB24X829          -Secondary Door Switch 237421-3-S-GE-WB24X829          -Secondary Door Switch http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00125324i01.gif

Secondary Door Switch

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PartSelect Number PS237421
Manufacturer Part Number WB24X829
Manufactured by GE

The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open. The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly. NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.

This part works with the following products: Microwave, Microwave Oven Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Doesn’t shut off.
  • Won’t turn on.
  • No heat.

Questions & Answers

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Most Recent

Question:

Hello folk! I need your help! I have GE microwave & the lights fan clock etc work but it will not turn on to cook! Part is the issue? Do 7 have the part? Thanks sincerely;elo

ERNIE for model number GE MODEL JVM1540SP1SS
Answer:

Hi Ernie, great question. When this model of microwave will not start, it is most commonly a problem with the secondary door switch. You can find a replacement part using this part number: PS237421. You may also want to enter your model number into our Instant Repairman feature to determine what other parts could be causing this symptom. Thanks for you question and good luck with the repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 23 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 23
 

221 of 253 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Marla from Arlington, TX

Light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up

Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.

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104 of 135 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: George from Sugar Land, TX

Ge microwave turns on when door is opened

I saw a similar problem description at partselect.com and was confident to take the challenge to repair it myself. (Thanks to partselect.com). When I opened the microwave cover I found 3 similar switches. 2 of them works the same way and the other in reverse direction. Image diagram provided to buy parts is helpful to identify the switch.
Steps:
Remove the built-in microwave from the wall and keep it in an open space.
Remove the microwave screws and take the cover out.
Remove the 2 screws(inside) from the plastic panel where switches are snapped in
Gently remove the faulty switch and replace with the new one.
(In my case the topmost secondary door switch was broken)

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32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Sean from San Jose, CA

Turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok.

Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.

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30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Chad from Firestone, CO

All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism

A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.

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30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Bishop from Coupland, TX

Microwave fan turned on when door was opened

To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.

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35 of 58 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Gary from West Mifflin, PA

Microwave wouldn't turn on

I found the thermostat & one connection burnt... replaced the thermostat and replaced a wire terminal. I checked the door switches and found the one with burnt connections faulty... the switch was constantly closed, even when it was supposed to be switched open. Replaced the switch and the thermostat, and the microwave now works like new. If the thermostat goes bad again, I'll replace the magnetron next time.

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21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Randy from Ottawa, IL

Everything worked on the microwave, except it would not heat anything.

The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.

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20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Douglas from Mechanicsburg, PA

No heat in the microwave

We purchased our Microhood oven about 4 years ago along with the extended warranty package offered thru home depot. Within one year, the problems began. Each year the secondary switch would go bad rendering the microwave useless. If you have 3 small children like we do, you tend to use it a lot. We sure take the microwave for granted.

Each time G.E. would fix the problem at no charge. Ths time - the warranty had expired and GE wanted to charge us $80.00 for service call plus parts and labor. We estimated the cost to run at least $150.00 or more.

To top it all off, GE was going to have a service tech avail for over 2 weeks. This is poor customer service and completely unaccceptable.

Because this was a recurring problem, I figured it was the same part that had being going bad since we purchased the appliance. I decided to order the part "secondary switch" myself and attempt to fix the microwave on my own.

I ordered the part last Tuesday, the part arrived last Friday. Within 10 minutes I had the microwave apart, replaced the part and had the microwave back in working order.

PartSelect saved me over $100.00.

We are very satified with PartsSelect, I would recommend them to anyone

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9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: William from Fridley, MN

When opening door, the microwave would turn on

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

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10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: PATRICK from Covington, LA

Oven blows 20 amp fuse

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

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7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: JULIA from JACKSONVILLE, FL

Microwave would not start

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

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6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Don from Monte Sereno, CA

Microwave wouldn't start after "start" pushed

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

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15 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Paul from San Jose, CA

After closing door the display panel must be tapped on to keep the unit operating.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Lois from El Segundo, CA

Microwave would turn on when door opened

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Secondary Door Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Jim from Albuquerque, NM

Power worked but would not cook

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

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1-15 of 23

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS237421
Manufacturer Part Number: WB24X829
Brand Model Number Description
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