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PartSelect Number PS236750
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This switch controls the small burner on a range/stove top.
Remove nobs from both switches.Pull out the range (the hardest part).REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALLRemove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.Replace the back panel with 7 screws.In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.
first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.
The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.
Originally the burner had a hole burnt through it, which resulted in a hole being burnt through the bottom of a pan. I replaced the burner and it would not heat up. I removed the top control panel, after securing power to the stove outlet, turned the power back on checked both sides of the swith with a meter (with the switch on) and had no power on one side. I went to two stores that did not have the switch in stock and ended up ordering from this site at about half the price! It arrived a couple of days later. I marked the wire colors on the old switch, took off the knob, removed two phillips head screws, pulled out the old switch and installed the new one and I was back in business. The hardest part was getting the sheet metal / heat gaurd positioned right upon re-assembly. To remove the panel there are two screws in the rear (nut driver) and a screw on either side of the front under each corner that require a torx driver to remove.
took of the back panel with a nut driver,pulled off the wires one at a time ,put them on the new switch in same position as the old switch.removed old switch with a screwdriver ,screwed in new switch,replaced back panel,put on switch knob
Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.
Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.
1. Shut off power at breaker.2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)3. removed three screws along top edge.4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches. 7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.10 replace all screws in reverse order.11. Re-install door.12 close breakereasy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
unplugged oven, pulled from wall, removed panel, removed switch, read directions, modified new switch, installed new switch, cleaned behind oven, and back in service.
Removed two screws holding the housing in place and loosened two more on the back it order to free it. Switch was held i place with two screws, removed those. Transfered wires one by one on the new switch, which was identical OEM part, and replaced the screws. VERY simple.
took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.
my husband did the repairs, my burner and oven work great. the best part was your speed on getting this sent out. It was sitting at my back door when I got home, the day before Thanksgiving. went right to work making pumpkin pies
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