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PartSelect Number PS2364946
This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel. Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
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The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator). Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
Remove back panel to expose the control board. Simply unplug cables from old board and pull the board out, no tools required. Put new board in place and replace the cables. Very easy.
Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.
Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.
After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!
Part arrived 2 days before anticipated. I was able to keep my fridge running long enough to get the new part in, which took no time at all. The Main Board relay would start clicking and the compressor would shut down. By unplugging the top right plug for a minute and plugging it back in I was able to keep it running for a few hours at a time. Good enough to keep my food from going bad. Thr part was an easy plug in replacement, was a good price, and works great.
Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new
I first called a GE repairperson. The diagnose the problem and told me the main control board was shot and the double outlet water valve needed replaced. The estimate for both parts and repairs was $850.00. I thought the estimate was high so I did some research on-line and discovered I could purchase the parts myself. When I researched the part, a short video popped up explaining how to install the part. I watched both video's and did exactly what the guy in the video said and was able to repair my refrigerator/freezer myself. The total cost for both parts was $200.00, I save $650!!! Amazing. I ordered the part on Saturday, and was told it would take a week to 10 days to receive the part and the part showed up on my door steep the following Tuesday. I'll never call a repairmen first again. I'll research the issue through partselect.com and try to fix the problem myself. I am not technologically or mechanically sauvy and have spent thousands on repair bills in the past, no more will I do that.
Moved refrig away from wall and unpluged electric cord. Removed cover from control board. Removed connector plugs from control board. Removed old control board and replaced it with new control. Replaced connectors and cover. Pluged electric cord into wall socket. Operation, OK.
The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.
I replaced the display board by accident to find out that there is a big board in the rear of the unit. Order and replaced it well not fixed and still doing the same thing. three hundred dollars later and i am ready to push it out the door and get a old school fridge without all the electronic bs. at least they work and last. what a concept.
replaced main board.
1. Pulled refrigerator out2. Unpluged the refrigerator 3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on.4. Removed Board ASM Main Control.5. Unpluged Connector's.6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control.7. Put cover back on.8. Pluged refrigerator back in.9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.
Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.
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