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PartSelect Number PS2364946
This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.
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i Removed back panels and then I removed the faulty circuit board. Installed new circuit board and presto everything worked. I can't believe how easy it was but on the other hand I couldn't believe a refrigerator had such a sophisticated part..
Tom Paone at firstname.lastname@example.org. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at email@example.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.
It was a very simple installation after reading about everyone else having the same "noise" problem with their GE side by side refrigerator.I simply; pulled the refrigerator out, turned off the power, took off the 3 screws to remove the plate, unhooked the 5 or so connections with my hands, put the new part in, hooked the connections up, put the plate back on, plugged the refrigerator back in, and slid in back into place. It took around 10 minutes to do, very simple.
Obvious that main electronic board was fried. Refrigerator and freezer both not working although fan was running. Replaced main board and run capacitor. Compressor not running. Pulled starter relay and checked compressor connections for continuity. Checked ok. Ordered starter relay and installed with new capacitor. Compressor started and has been running quiet and cold ever since. Thanks to videos on partsselect website for offering the confidence to try the fix myself. Total spent on parts and shipping,$350. I had electric provider install surge protection behind meter for a cost of $5.70 a month. Hope it works as advertised.
Unplugged unit.. Removed control board cover.. Removed all plugs from control board then removed board its self.. Replaced in reverse order.. Unit is working as new..
For the Main Control board: I took pictures of connectors and matched them to same numbered connectors on the new board, but it's hard to get it wrong, really. Since the old board zapped a hole right through the plastic sheet behind it, I made a new one with the original as a template. For the ice auger, I left the blades on the old, broken one til I was ready to swap them to the new one to keep them in order, and used a new nut though the old one probably would have still worked. The clear crusher cover plate does wiggle on the auger assembly, blades and all. Just be sure to take pictures to remember how it all goes together. The trickiest part is removing the crusher assembly without breaking plastic--only use just enough force to release the claws. You'll have to at least partly take apart the rod pieces underneath. I cleaned everything with warm, dish soap water and some white vinegar mixed in. Some parts I put in the dishwasher. This a good time to clean the entire frig, too. You may want to also have new water line connector hardware on hand, too, just in case it gets damaged/leaks if disconnected and reconnected for servicing. Always unplug the frig first to start. I used a small, indoor/outdoor temperature device to check the freezer and frig temps to check when done to make sure it worked. Finally, it really, really helped having a "loaner" frig during this time!
Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.
After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!
Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.
narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.
Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.
diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.Hope this helpsGod BlessCaptain Scott Cousins
Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise
Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy
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