Main Control Board

UNPLUG! (Read Instructions for wiring configuration) Remove cover lower back right hand side.Remove ribbon plugs top and bottom you will need to lever back holding tab while pulling plug they will more than likely break dont worry you are throwing this part away., disconnect ground wire, compress plastic holding tabs,
pull off control board, plug in new board push on to holding tabs reconnect ground and turn on refrigerator and check replace cover, everything is now working great.

I removed the board, unplugged all the sockets, took the new board, plugged in all the sockets, and replaced the new board into the refrigerator. I was to applaud this business. I was first able to diagnose the problem by finding this site, then one of the customers explained how to fix the problem ourselves. It save us at least $100. The $25 overnight shipping fee was well worth it. We could have lost $100's of dollars worth of food.

From Google to PartsSelect. Reading the forum, the consensus was that to fix the nonworking dispensers the main refrigerator motherboard had to be replaced. I ordered it which is easy to do because the diagrams show all the parts clearly. Great website. I also ordered the front trim piece because I had snapped one of the prongs holding it on. They arrived quickly. The trim just snaps on the front which takes a few seconds. The motherboard which is just a circuit board, even came with replacement instructions. It takes a few minutes to wheel the refrigerator out, then take off the back panel (3 screws), unplug all the connectors, unsnap the circuit board, snap the new one in, plug the connectors in, reattach the back panel, and wheel the refrigerator back to the wall.

The water dispenser promptly froze up. To make sure that it is not the solenoid valve, unhook the water hose under the freezer door. Pressing in the water dispenser should pump water out of the hose onto the floor. It did for me. Since there is only plastic tubing after that, it has to be clogged with ice. I took a thermocouple, inserted the wire into the water dispenser outlet, it would only go in about 3 inches and displayed 31 F. I took a plastic funnel which slipped onto the end of the outlet and used a blow dryer to heat up the outlet a lot several times. Eventually the ice unfroze and it has been working ever since. I think if this happens again, I'll get a cheap aquarium aerator to pump air, for the hours it might take, through a thin tube (using wire insulation) to the frozen spot to melt the ice.

While the refrigerator was away from the wall, I took off the screws holding the large bottom panel in the back off. This exposes the condenser cooling which visually needed to be cleaned off with a vacuum cleaner. After doing this, it seemed to make the refrigerator run much more efficiently.

The refrigerator has been working perfectly for past month and it makes me so happy.

Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.

Remove back panel to expose the control board. Simply unplug cables from old board and pull the board out, no tools required. Put new board in place and replace the cables. Very easy.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

I replaced the display board by accident to find out that there is a big board in the rear of the unit. Order and replaced it well not fixed and still doing the same thing. three hundred dollars later and i am ready to push it out the door and get a old school fridge without all the electronic bs. at least they work and last. what a concept.

pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.

Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.

Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!

Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws

Removed connectors and ground wire

Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)

Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on

Everything worked properly

Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.

First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.

Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.

Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.

The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!

Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.

Moved refrig away from wall and unpluged electric cord. Removed cover from control board. Removed connector plugs from control board. Removed old control board and replaced it with new control. Replaced connectors and cover. Pluged electric cord into wall socket. Operation, OK.