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PartSelect Number PS235991
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.2. Lift range lid. 3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.(Note: Do not remove wires yet)4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch. 6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old. 7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one. 9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range. 10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch. 11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place. 12. Close lid, replace back panel13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.
1. Removed the back panel.2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
1. Pulled out drawer2. Vacuumed dust, etc. under stove3. Reached under stove to rear and pulled plug4. Pulled the stove out away from wall so I could get to back5. Removed 5 screws that retained the back of the control panel6. One by one, I removed each wire from an old control and pushed it onto the same pin on the new control - did same for all 4 burner controls7. Removed the knobs8. Removed 2 screws from the front panel for each old control and removed the old controls9. Pushed each of the new controls into place on the panel and reused screws to secure them in place10. Cut the long control stems using 2 pliers per instructions to match length of old controls.11. Used knob adapters provided to mate the old knobs to the new control stems12. Plugged the stove in and tested the burners13. Unplugged and replace the panel back with original screws14. Moved stove back into place15. The right front burner was the one most used, so I replaced the connector for that burner.16. That connector came with instructions that I followed - cut the wires to the old connector, splice the wires to the new connector wires using supplied wire nuts and shrink tubing.17. Plugged the stove back in18. Replaced drawer - job complete - stove like new
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory. Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel
First, I used the PatrSelect website, which has great prices, and has helpful diagrams. Once I had all the parts, I worked with my wife to turn off the power at our home junction box. Next, I lifted off the cover over the control area of this range. I removed four nuts to lift out the panel that holds the four controls and the fan switch. I removed the wires from the broken controls, removed the two screws holding each control in place, then screwed the new ones in place. I would recommend trimming the posts on the controls to the correct size before screwing them in place, because it is easier to grip them and not bend them when they are not mounted. I reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. For the "receptacle", I followed the instructions provided regarding cutting the wire and placing the wire nut and heat shrink tubing. I opened the unit that houses the burners to get easy access.
First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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