Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit

lifted washer top, removed front panel, took punch and hammer to loosen collar (right to loosen- left to tighten) removed tub replaced seals and o-ring. then replaced the nylon retaining ring then reassembled. all works well now no leaks. Easy fix saved $500.00

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!

Disassembled the washer, found bad parts, ordered new parts, put new parts in and tested washer out side of house

REMOVED TOP. REMOVED AGITATOR AND TUBS . REPLACED SEALS AND REASSEMBLED.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....

Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.

I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.

Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.

Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.

I started looking for a pair of used front loaders but got cold feet when looking at reviews. I thought maybe I would try to patch mine to get us through Christmas Holidays. Not knowing anything about how either unit even works; I luckily found your web site. I looked at your parts fiche on my units and then watched the videos on how to make the repairs. I was convinced that I could do this and I wanted to give back to your company for the good knowledge so I ordered from you. The parts where right on ,and the repairs where both successful. Thank You !

Took all the parts related to the drive shaft and replaced the tub seal. We also replaced drive and pump belts due to an overheating smell coning from washer a couple months back.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.