Drive Belt

REMOVE THE BOTTOM COVER OF DRYER TO LOOK AT THE MOTOR, SEE BELT HANGING REMOVE BROKEN BELT.REMOVE SCREWS FROM THE TOP AND FRONT, SLIDE BELT OVER DRUM PUT SMALL PIECE OF TAPE TO HOLE BELT IN PLACE REPLACE SCREWS GO BACK TO THE REAR PULL BELT OVER THE MOTOR PULLEY CLOSE BACK PANEL

First I took the lower bottom off the back of the dryer (bolts), pulled the old pulley off the idler and put new one on. Second, I took the screws out in front (under lip of top) and then removed bolts from bottom of the front. Then lifted lid up and swung front to the side. I was then able to take the drum out and clean it before putting it back in with the new belt. The put everything back together.
Dryer ran for ten mintues and then quite again. Seems to be in the motor and not the less expensive parts I found to be worn.

Removed the top, four screws under the front inside the open door. Then the removed the front, two screws inside at top by drum and two screws on bottom. Then pulled out the drum, from there I was able to get to the bearing that was bad. Mine was a older model than the instructions showed that came with my repair parts but it was colse enough to get the job done. Your website is AWESOME!!! The entire experience was wonderful and made my repair as painless as possible. I have already recomended it to my friends, keep up the great work.

First read very helpful reviews on PartSelect from:
Summit Health and Fitness From Flagstaff AZ
and Michael From Warwick RI

The parts diagram on PartSelect is good as an overview. Having two people makes a big difference detaching and re-attaching the drum.

Knowing how to get the lid and front door off each specific model is important. That's where the stories mentioned above were essential. After that, many generic dryer repair stories will work.

I recommend changing all wearable parts while you are in there. I wish I had ordered some new felt, but I did rear bearing, slides, and belt even though the belt probably was good to go.

PartSelect shipped from Windsor Locks, CT. The parts were nearly exact replacements. Some fasteners were different, so I used the old ones and had the tap the sheet metal on the retainer with the fasteners before installing it.

Really glad to have stumbled on this site via Google.

Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.

Removed the screws that hold the draying unit (barrel) to get accest to the back of the switch, and that's when I noticed that I will need the belt and I ordered to when my existing belt goes I have a replacement.

Removed back panel and old timer. Matched wires from old timer to new and installed new timer. Very easy and went smoothly. Having the Exact replacement timer was the essence of the task, thanks to the easy of buying from PartSelect.

The belt replacement was a little more difficult. Finally finding how to guide the belt Behind the felt busing in the front of the dryer helped. Then it took some cuts on the upper arm to guide the belt around the motor and tension pulleys properly. Be sure that the belt has the Rough side ON the drum and doesn't get turned anywhere in it's path.

DISASSEMBLED;(MAINLY JUST TAKING SCREWS OUT) BLEW/VACUUMED 50 POUNDS OF LINT FROM CHASSIS/MOTOR AREA ; REPLACED THERMOSTAT, AND WHILE I HAD IT APART REPLACED BELT AND BEARING. RUNS/DRIES LIKE NEW

Took front off , put new belt over and under drum.
Laid on front put new pulley in place on back side.
Stood back up, put belt back on motor pulley.
Then put idler pully wheel back in place.
Put front back on, lid down in place, ready to run.

Removed timer and put new one in. Perfect! Also replaced belt and it went in perfectly. Vacuumed out the interior too.

drive belt gone, replaced belt and bearing

Unplugged machine and turned off the gas. Removed top panel,4 screws along inside top edge of door opening. Used a wooden shim to pry the drum away from the surrounding "lip with felt padding. Slipped belt through.the trick is getting the belto around the entire drum. First I got it over the top of the drum, and fed it around the bottom by turning the drum and pushing the belt through the opening made by the shim between the bottom of drum and the lip with felt. It was kind of like feeding a bicycle chain onto a sprocket as you turn the wheel..
Removed back panel and vent hose, removed old belt laying on floor of machine, fed the belt onto the motor pulley and the tension pulley. Tension pulley presses on top side of belt. Belt should be in same position on drum as old belt, you can see a friction mark all around the drum from the old belt.
Replaced panels and vent hose. Put felt padding back into place wherever it slipped out. Very important because if you don't it scrapes the drum when turned on and makes a loud sound.
Dryer works perfectly again.

Took the top and front off. DO NOT TAKE DRUM OFF!! Lifted drum slightly and worked belt around drum. Replaced front and top. Took off rear panel at bottom near vent pipe. Put belt around motor and then tension pulley. Buttoned everything up and that was it!

Removed the top, front and lower rear section of the dryer. This being my first experience replacing a dryer belt I naturally missed the tensioner pulley first try, then installed the belt on the wrong side of the pulley and found I didn't have enough tension. After some thought and a long hard look I realized my mistake and the third time was the charm. Next time I need to replace a dryer belt it should be a snap and go a lot faster.

The rear bearing plate had no threads where the screws go to hold it to the back of the dryer drum. I have never bought anything else that needed threads cut in it to be used as a replacement part.