2350043-1-S-GE-WE12X10014-Drive Belt
2350043-1-S-GE-WE12X10014-Drive Belt 2350043-2-S-GE-WE12X10014-Drive Belt 2350043-3-S-GE-WE12X10014-Drive Belt http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00008689i04.gif

Drive Belt

PartSelect Number PS2350043

This belt has a length of 87 inches, width of 1/4”, flat, with 4 ridges.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not tumble.
  • Noisy.
  • Will Not Start.
  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Compare At

    $11.45
  • You Save

    $1.91
  • Your Price

    $9.54
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 56 reviews What's this?
 

7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Drive Belt
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Bruce from Taylor, PA

Broken dryer belt

Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.

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7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Peter from Winter Haven, FL

Broken belt and worn bearing

Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer

My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.
Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.
Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.
Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORK
Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.

First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.
With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.
Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel.
( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )
The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of
2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.
Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.
Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )
Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )
Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws )
Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.
The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.
Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.
( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)
Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.
Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.
Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.
A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.
Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.
It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile

Helpful hint.
At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.
Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.

To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.

Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.

If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.
Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.
Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.
Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.
Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.
Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in

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6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Robert from Las Vegas, NV

Broken drive belt & worn rear drum bearing

After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to PartSelect.com for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.

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4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Thomas from Terre Haute, IN

Dryer drum would not turn

After opening the front door there are screws that are holding the top to the door. Take those screws out using a Phillips screwdriver. The top should lift up and rest at a near 90 degree angle.

The door has two screws at the bottom that need to be taken out. Once those are out there are two screws on both sides at the top holding it to the frame. Remove those as well.

Before you remove the front you should document the wiring for the door light switch. I took these off to give the door a little extra room so I could rest it on a toolbox without taking all the wires completely off.

Once the door is free, on the back there is a metal plate with two screws in it roughly in the middle of the unit. Unscrew the top completely but leave the bottom screw in and just slightly loosen it. This will allow it to swing down out of the way without the need to completely remove it and have one more part to put back together in the end.

What this plate is covering is the center of the drum. There is a small metal tab that you can push on and it will push the drum out so it can be removed. Gripping the drum, you can lift it out by guiding it through the notches on each side where the drum protrudes.

With the drum removed you'll see the motor and idle pulley. On my model the pulley was attached to a metal rod that was spring loaded. The pulley is held on by a small tension washer that was easily removed with pliers. Installation was somewhat more difficult but mostly just getting it lined up and started. Once on the rod it was easy to push it into place.

With the new pulley installed it's time to install the new belt. To do this first put the belt over the drop and then replace the drum back into the frame. Once the drum is pushed back into the hole it will support itself.

Now you need to remove the panel on the back to get access to the motor and pulley. This panel has a lot of screws. Once that's off you can then guide the belt over the motor and get the idle pulley to put tension on the belt.

Once that is complete just replace all the screws you removed, plug it back in and watch as your new belt moves the drum once again.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Terry from Huntingdon, PA

Dryer made screeching noise when running

removed top by removing two screw inside door,
found felt was out of place and ruined--found some wear on bearing at rear of drum--decided to
replace these parts plus fround bearing--also
new belt ,since it was apart---to remove the drum
you have to remove front panel,which required
removing two bolts from inside at top--front of
dryer just lays down--then you can pull tub out-
I read other customers repair storys ,which made it real easy.

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