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PartSelect Number PS2350043
This belt has a length of 87 inches, width of 1/4”, flat, with 4 ridges.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken. As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement. At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE
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Disassembled;(mainly just taking screws out) blew/vacuumed 50 pounds of lint from chassis/motor area ; replaced thermostat, and while I had it apart replaced belt and bearing. Runs/dries like new
Removed 3 torx screws on the control panel. Removed two more regular screws from the dryer opening. This allows removal of the top. Removed some panels from the back to access where belt feeds through the motor. Found the belt snapped in two inside.Now that I knew what the problem was I found partselect.com on Google. Ordered the part friday morning with ground. The belt arrived SATURDAY MORNING! I didn't even know fedex would deliver ground shipments on Saturday. Less than 24 hours later I had it. AWESOME.Removed the front panel by removing two hex bolts to allow me to drape the belt over the drum. Not having seen how the belt was originally around the tensioner and the bad diagrams included with the dryer, it took some figuring to get it back on right. But we did it and we're back in business. I will absolutely buy from PartSelect.com again!
Took front off , put new belt over and under drum.Laid on front put new pulley in place on back side.Stood back up, put belt back on motor pulley.Then put idler pully wheel back in place.Put front back on, lid down in place, ready to run.
Open top by removing 4 phillips head screws above opened door, pop top up. Remove rear access panel, remove belt from drive & tension pully. Loosen top front screws, remove front panel to gain access to remove drum. After drum removed, I realized why rear bearing went bad- two front guides were worn causing rear bearing to angle and wear out. Replaced front pads, buttoned her up and now quite as new. Also replaced drive belt while in there.
First I shut off the gas and unhooked the gas line. Then opened the door and removed the screws that hold the top down in the front. I then tipped the top back so I could get to the top of the drum. I removed the screws ( 4 ) inside the door opening and slid the felt seal back. Next I put the belt in the drum and feed part out the crack between the drum and the dryer frame, being careful not to cut the belt. I woorked the belt around the crack and pulled it toward the drum. When I got the belt through it was all the way around the drum and I just put the belt over the motor pully and pulled the tensioner back and wrapped the belt over it. Put all the screws back in and the back on and fired it up. Works as good as it ever did.
After identifying the issue, the biggest issue was trying to identify how to get the belt around the drum tumbler. After looking through the back hatch, I figured the best way was through the top. I removed the top just enough to work the belt in between the drum and the front sheet metal. Then I turned it on its side and worked the belt from the back hatch. I pulled the pulley back on the tensioner and slipped the belt under neath. Put it back together, been working great.
Remove the bottom cover of dryer to look at the motor, see belt hanging remove broken belt. Remove screws from the top and front, slide belt over drum put small piece of tape to hole belt in place replace screws go back to the rear pull belt over the motor pulley close back panel
First I took the lower bottom off the back of the dryer (bolts), pulled the old pulley off the idler and put new one on. Second, I took the screws out in front (under lip of top) and then removed bolts from bottom of the front. Then lifted lid up and swung front to the side. I was then able to take the drum out and clean it before putting it back in with the new belt. The put everything back together. Dryer ran for ten mintues and then quite again. Seems to be in the motor and not the less expensive parts I found to be worn.
Removed the top, four screws under the front inside the open door. Then the removed the front, two screws inside at top by drum and two screws on bottom. Then pulled out the drum, from there I was able to get to the bearing that was bad. Mine was a older model than the instructions showed that came with my repair parts but it was colse enough to get the job done. Your website is AWESOME!!! The entire experience was wonderful and made my repair as painless as possible. I have already recomended it to my friends, keep up the great work.
Removed Front of Machine, removed access panel on back of machine, reassembled after installing belt and cleaning out machine. Pretty Easy, hardest part is getting around the front of the drum.This machine has been going since 1978. 31 years, 2nd replacement belt and thats all, not bad, the washer that was bought at the same time went around 6 years ago, havent had the same luck, since then, two machines and the latest one is giving me problems already. They dont make them like they used to.
Backwards to start- here's the correct way.Disconnect power and vent hose-tip onto front-remove bottom plate allowing access to bottom of dryer and the belt pulleys-remove the small plate in center and under that is a C-clip holding the drum shaft in place-remove the clip and washer-sit dryer upright - open the door and remove the 4 screws under the upper lip which hold the top of the dryer in place-lift up top and secure or have someone hold it up.-inside the top front on both sides are 2 screws per side and there are 2 screws at the bottom under the kick area, remove all 6 of these screws and the front of the dryer will come off-watch the wires-with the front off you can pull the drum forward to allow installing the new belt. - hold the new belt in place with a couple of pieces of tape-reverse the procedure to put drum back together and then thread the new belt onto the drive pulley and under the idler tension pulley.- reinstall back plate, vent hose, power and you're ready to go have a beer.
Removed back panel and old timer. Matched wires from old timer to new and installed new timer. Very easy and went smoothly. Having the Exact replacement timer was the essence of the task, thanks to the easy of buying from PartSelect.The belt replacement was a little more difficult. Finally finding how to guide the belt Behind the felt busing in the front of the dryer helped. Then it took some cuts on the upper arm to guide the belt around the motor and tension pulleys properly. Be sure that the belt has the Rough side ON the drum and doesn't get turned anywhere in it's path.
Removed the screws that hold the draying unit (barrel) to get accest to the back of the switch, and that's when I noticed that I will need the belt and I ordered to when my existing belt goes I have a replacement.
Removed timer and put new one in. Perfect! Also replaced belt and it went in perfectly. Vacuumed out the interior too.
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