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PartSelect Number PS2350043
This belt has a length of 87 inches, width of 1/4”, flat, with 4 ridges.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnect and clean all duct work.Note: Lint is combustable, save yourself the disaster of a dryer fire.Position dryer face down on floor.Access rear of unit, vacume clean.Upright unit.Access front of unit by removing sheet metal screws above door to float the lid.Using screwdriver gently seperate drum at top from housing. Hold open with wedges. Thread new belt through hole a foot or so.Tape belt to drum near drum center.Rotate drum until belt is fully around. Note: Taping new belt to drum will assist you in reassembling. Belt will not fall off drum when unit is face down on floor.Remove wedges and resecure sheet metal screws to top of unit.Place the unit face down again.Ensure belt clears all front mounts.Note: gentaly pull drum from mount and slide belt between.Remove old belt and idler pully.Note: replace the idler pully with every new belt it will save you time later.Install new idler pulley and rethread in new belt.Rotate drum to access and remove tape attaching new belt to drum.Upright unit and test.Re-attach access panels, reposition unit and re-attach duct work. Done
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Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryerMy belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORKTake careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel. ( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of 2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws ) Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragileHelpful hint. At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in
After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to PartSelect.com for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.
After opening the front door there are screws that are holding the top to the door. Take those screws out using a Phillips screwdriver. The top should lift up and rest at a near 90 degree angle.The door has two screws at the bottom that need to be taken out. Once those are out there are two screws on both sides at the top holding it to the frame. Remove those as well.Before you remove the front you should document the wiring for the door light switch. I took these off to give the door a little extra room so I could rest it on a toolbox without taking all the wires completely off.Once the door is free, on the back there is a metal plate with two screws in it roughly in the middle of the unit. Unscrew the top completely but leave the bottom screw in and just slightly loosen it. This will allow it to swing down out of the way without the need to completely remove it and have one more part to put back together in the end.What this plate is covering is the center of the drum. There is a small metal tab that you can push on and it will push the drum out so it can be removed. Gripping the drum, you can lift it out by guiding it through the notches on each side where the drum protrudes.With the drum removed you'll see the motor and idle pulley. On my model the pulley was attached to a metal rod that was spring loaded. The pulley is held on by a small tension washer that was easily removed with pliers. Installation was somewhat more difficult but mostly just getting it lined up and started. Once on the rod it was easy to push it into place.With the new pulley installed it's time to install the new belt. To do this first put the belt over the drop and then replace the drum back into the frame. Once the drum is pushed back into the hole it will support itself.Now you need to remove the panel on the back to get access to the motor and pulley. This panel has a lot of screws. Once that's off you can then guide the belt over the motor and get the idle pulley to put tension on the belt.Once that is complete just replace all the screws you removed, plug it back in and watch as your new belt moves the drum once again.
removed top by removing two screw inside door,found felt was out of place and ruined--found some wear on bearing at rear of drum--decided toreplace these parts plus fround bearing--alsonew belt ,since it was apart---to remove the drumyou have to remove front panel,which requiredremoving two bolts from inside at top--front ofdryer just lays down--then you can pull tub out- I read other customers repair storys ,which made it real easy.
I removed the rear panel to access the drive belt. Lowered the pulley to remove the belt and then took off the front panel and popped the top lid off. The belt was slightly frayed on the edges and looked a little old. Inside of the dryer was filled with lint, noticed the vent that sucks the lint from the dryer was almost totally blocked because off caked on lint. Probably from the moisture when we lived in Tx and had it in our garage. Sucked it out with the shop vac and scraped the rest. Removed the whole drum and that's when I noticed the rear drum bearing was totally destroyed and only a piece or two remained. Ordered the drum bearing and drive belt. I was about to put them on when I saw the drum slides were worn pretty thin. So I had to order more drum slides. That's why it took me so long to repair the dryer. If I had the parts already, it would have only taken an hour or so. I was pretty excited that I did it myself, since my husband usually fixes everything around the house. Easier than I thought :o)
First read very helpful reviews on PartSelect from:Summit Health and Fitness From Flagstaff AZand Michael From Warwick RIThe parts diagram on PartSelect is good as an overview. Having two people makes a big difference detaching and re-attaching the drum.Knowing how to get the lid and front door off each specific model is important. That's where the stories mentioned above were essential. After that, many generic dryer repair stories will work.I recommend changing all wearable parts while you are in there. I wish I had ordered some new felt, but I did rear bearing, slides, and belt even though the belt probably was good to go.PartSelect shipped from Windsor Locks, CT. The parts were nearly exact replacements. Some fasteners were different, so I used the old ones and had the tap the sheet metal on the retainer with the fasteners before installing it.Really glad to have stumbled on this site via Google.
Top is hinged in back, removing the 4 screws over the door under the top allowed the top to open. Removing the 2 screws near the top of the door panel allowed it's removal. Marked and disconnected wiring. Lifted drum through top. New bearing housing required 3 mounting holes to be tapped to 10-24. Installed bearing and backing shims with old hardened allen head mounting screws inside drum while wife held bearing in back of drum. Furnished 3- 10-24 lock nuts to lock mounting screws in place from their back side. Reinserted drum through dryer top with belt on drum. Hardest part was getting the belt on motor pulley while holding the idler in it's correct position due to small access holes at the very bottom in rear panel. Works just fine again.
first I removed the screws with the nutdriver at the bottom of the dryer at the back..then I could see the belt was broken...next I took off the 2 nuts at the back that hold the top on ..then opened the dryer front door and unscrewd the 4 screws holding the top on....then I lifted the top up and to the side...then all I had to do was take out 2 screws one on each side of dryer front and the the front was open enough that I could slide the new belt on dryer..then screwed the front back on...then placed the top on and went to the back of dryer and put belt on pulley using the diagram I found in the instructions inside the dryer top...really a lot easier than it sounds...easy fix saved me from buying another dryer
I read all the reviews first, and decided on the best method, which is, disconnect utilities, remove four phillips screws under front of top,swing top open like a box lid, pull the two spade connectors off of the door switch, loosen the two hex head screws under the front of the front panel,remove the 2 hex head screws near the top of the front panel, and free the wire harness along right side of machine, this will allow you to swing the entire front panel to the right side,now remove the three torx screws inside the drum,this will allow the drum to be removed, exposing the bearing assembly at the rear of the drum. My machine is 20 years old, and when ordering parts, my machine #s were not listed, but they looked identical, but my bearing's shaft had a circlip retaining it in the bearing receiver, which had to be removed,( the newer shaft just inserts into the receiver, which is screwed into the back of the machine). Make sure to install the ground strap like the one you removed.My best advice for someone thinking about this repair, take it apart first and survey the parts needed before making the decision to repair your old machine, my drum's old bearing allowed the machine to function, and the shaft wore through the bottom of the receiver, allowing the defector, a round disc of thin sheet metal at the back of the drum (a $128 part), to make contact with it's housing, severely damaging both parts, making further investment in this machine unwise,even if I replaced the disc, the cut in the back, would allow really hot gases to escape into the dryer's interior, a scary scenario. I cut my losses and bought a new dryer last week. Anybody want to buy a brand new rear bearing assembly & belt for a GE dryer?. If you only have to replace the bearing, the job is a snap, but prepare to do a lot of dust removal!. Steve
Took the top and front off. DO NOT TAKE DRUM OFF!! Lifted drum slightly and worked belt around drum. Replaced front and top. Took off rear panel at bottom near vent pipe. Put belt around motor and then tension pulley. Buttoned everything up and that was it!
Found excellent instructions and diagrams online by searching under the model number. Best of all was the service from PartSelect. Belt arrived 24 hours after ordering. It was the right part, it was easy to install, and the dryer is running beautifully.
I removed the 2 screws and lock assemblies from both sides on the back. Then i removed 4 screws (two from each side) on the control panel and lifted that up as i tipped the cover forward to disconnect the wires from the door switch. I found the wiring diagram inside the control panel cover, which included a belt routing diagram (very helpful, being the belt was laying in the bottom. I then removed 3 torx srews holding the drum to the bearing, and removed the drum. Let the fun begin! i proceded to put the belt onto the motor pulley and around the tensioner. i needed some help from my wife to set the drum back in as i held the belt up around it. once the drum was back in, i found the beld had fallen away from the tensioner. I lifted the front of the drum up just enough to get both arms below it and move the tensioner back to slip the belt over it correctly. With the new belt on i started to put the screws back in the drum. This got very frustrating, as you have to correctly line up all the holes again, while holding the drum in the correct angle to start the screws. this was the hardest part, not physically, but wears on a person's nerves quickly! Once all the screws were in and tight, i took a deep sigh of relief before i tipped the front cover up just enought to get the wires hooked back up for the door. I turned the unit on to verify the repair before re-assembly. Yep! works again, for well under $20.00! Thanks PartSelect!
The rear bearing plate had no threads where the screws go to hold it to the back of the dryer drum. I have never bought anything else that needed threads cut in it to be used as a replacement part.
I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken. As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement. At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE
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