2347262-1-S-Whirlpool-6-3700340-Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing
2347262-1-S-Whirlpool-6-3700340-Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing

Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing

PartSelect Number PS2347262

This wheel spins on the pulley shaft.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Unusual Noise.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Will not start.
  • Compare At

    $10.81
  • You Save

    $1.80
  • Your Price

    $9.01
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Idler Arm and Shaft

Part Number 2347263

$14.50
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 50 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 50
 

129 of 199 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

CustomerFrederick W. from Austin TX

Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start

From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.

Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.

I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.

Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.

Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.

Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc

Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.

Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).

Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.

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30 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerLarry from Panama City Beach FL

Squeeling on startup and intermittently during use

First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.

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22 of 22 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerScott from Davie FL

Squeaking noise when dryer was on! Very annoying!

If your dryer is squeaking it is most likely either the idler pulley or drum rollers. First I took apart the dryer to see which parts I would need. I checked the drum rollers by spinning them with my hand to see if they spun freely and also checked them to see if they were loose, they were okay. Then I checked the idler pulley and found my problem, it was hard to spin it so I figured the bearing was shot. I sprayed some lubricant on the bearing to help with the squeaking while I waited for my parts. It took about 30 minutes to diagnose my problem and put the dryer back together.
I took some advise from another story saying to get the whole idler arm, shaft and pulley assembly. It might have cost me a few bucks more, but I did not want to run into the same problem he did (the pulley bearing was fused to the shaft). It took me about 20 minutes to take apart the dryer, install the part, and put it back together. If you are pretty good with fixing things, you should have no problem doing this repair.

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19 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerJohn from Bethlehem PA

Metal on metal squealing noise

After taking the dryer apart, I found that one of the drum support rollers was barely hanging on the pin and was the main cause of the metal on metal squealing noise that became increasingly worse over a month's time.

I replaced both rollers, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt after giving the dryer a thorough cleaning.

It was a 100% success and fixed the problem making the dryer work and sound like brand new again.

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13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerLisa from Trenton NJ

Dryer made very loud squealing, screeching noise. (sometimes intermittent, sometimes constant)

Note: You may want to consider replacing the 2 Drum Support rollers at this time (while your in there)

1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.

2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.

3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.

4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top
of the dryer closed.

5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).

*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.

6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.

7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.

8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.

9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.

10. Reassemble

(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerDonald from Bridgewater MA

Loudly squealing dryer

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerJohn from Palmdale CA

Squeaking sound then barrel stoped turning

Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)

CustomerWarner from Troy OH

Dryer was making a loud sueaking sound.

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerThurman from Huntsville AL

Squeaking noise while spinning

removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

CustomerShane from Heber City UT

Belt tensioner pulley seized to shaft

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

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3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerMitch from Ripin CA

Dryer was making a very loud screching sound

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case... Pretty easy job

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2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerBruce from Pitman NJ

Squeak when drum rotated

I removed the dryer door and attaching hardware to other covers. Raise the top cover and prop it up. Remove the drum retaining cover and disconnect the door switch wires, making note of their locations. Release tension on idler and take belt off of motor. Pull the drum out with belt still around it. Vacuum lint and dust from inside cabinet. Use snapring pliers and remove the snaprings on the drum rollers. Remove the old rollers and washers, clean the shafts and apply a light film of oil on the shafts. Install new rollers and plastic washers on shafts and secure with snaprings. Remove the "E" clip from the idler shaft and remove the old roller. Clean and lube the shaft and install the new idler and clip. Place the new belt on the drum with the ribs against the drum. Put the drum in place and install the front drum retainer. Position the belt around the motor pully and tensioner. Rotate the drum to get the belt to track. Attach the remaining covers.

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2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerDavid from Colbert WA

Squeeking

First removed front door 2 screws holding it to frame, then removed 2 screws holding front cover panel on tilt out front panel, used Vac to clean inside, removed idler arm with pully attached, replaced with new parts when I did a test run still had a llitle squeek, the drum support wheel on right looking from front making some squeeking,I went back in removed part shaft had small rust spot cleaned with jewelers cloth lubed and wiped off, no more squeek I wish I had ordered new drum wheel when I ordered idler parts, then I could have done a complete overhaul now I know more I have never worked on a dryer before the drawings on the web site heleped a lot

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2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)

CustomerAndy from Indianapolis IN

The idler pulley bearing went out and caused a meltdown on the pulley belt.

I removed and replaced all the problem pieces, and now she runs better then when I got her!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerDexter from Baxley GA

The idler wheel and bearing broke.

I took the front door off, then i took the the front facing off so i could see in where the idler pulley was. Then I took a couple of screws out so i could get the tumbler out so i could put the belt back on track. I replaced the pulley and then started putting everything back together and now the dryer works like a brand new one. I loved buying parts from here. Cause you are showed how to replace the parts you are wanting to replace. I was very satisfied with everything.

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