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PartSelect Number PS234519
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
The only difficult part of the repair was getting the original screws out of the old igniter and oven gas arm. Once I drilled the old screws out the repair was done within 20 minutes.
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There are 2 screws to remover to replace the element. That was the hard part as they were very stubborn to get out. I have to use a flexible bit and an impact driover to get them loose. Other than that, the replacement was smooth as silk !!
Getting the original screws out was a pain, but once I got them out I disconnected to old wires and attache the new wires. Installing the new igniter was VERY easy compared to removing th original one!
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven. This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench. The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws. I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too. The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven. When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
Removed the drawer at the bottom of the stove, then removed plate in rear covering the wires. unplugged the 2 wires coming from Igniter, then removed 2 1/4" srews holding the ignitor in place, took the old Ignitor and cut the 2 wires and spliced them to the new Ignitor reinstalled the new Ignitor in reverse order of removal. Saved over $110.00.
After removing two layers of the oven floor I could not get at the igniter's wire connections. I found out that the new igniter was shipped with two wire nuts made of porcelain instead of plastic, so they were heat tolerant. Because of this, I was able to unscrew the original part and just cut the wires. I then installed the new igniter and spliced the wires of the new part to the cut wires that lead to the old part using the porcelain wire nuts and tucked the connections out of harms way. It worked fine.
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