Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V

I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

took off 2 screws and 2 hose clamps put in new part. Put srews and clamp back on less than ten minutes. total cost with shipping $62.00. repair person wanted $265.00.

First of all I looked up the possible causes at partselect.com. The two likely choices were a door switch and/or the drain pump. I changed the door switch first. I removed the spring from the black boot. Pulled the boot away from the machine on the door switch side. Just the screw driver to remove the mounting screws from the from of the machine. This holds the door sw on the machine. After removing the screws i disconnected the wiring from the door sw. The wiring snaps in place. I then reversed this process and ran the machine. It worked so I didn't have to change the drain pump. I am keeping for backup as I have six of these washers.

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

THE PUMP WAS NO PROBLEM, 2 SCREWS, 2 HOSE CLAMPS AND 1 WIRE LOOM TO CHANGE. ALL EASY THE SHOCK ABSORBERS WERE BACK MID WASHER THE LEFT WAS AS THE ON LINE INSTRUCTION STATED BUT THE RIGHT SHOCK THE INSTRUCTIONS STATED THATYOU NEED THE REMOVE THE AIR GAP HOSE BUT YOU STILL COULD NOT EVEN GET A TOOL BACK TO GET THE UPPER SHOCK PIN OUT MUCH LESS PUT IT BACK IN. I ENDED UP REMOVING THE PUMP INTAKE BOOT OFF TO GAIN ACESS TO THE AREA IT ONLY TOOK ONE MORE HOSE CLAMP. THIS WORKED OUT WELL AS THE BOOT HAS A BUILT IN WELL TO CATCH ITEMS LEFT IN POCKETS. THIS WAS EMPTIED WHILE IT WAS OUT. ALL IN ALL I WAS PLEASED

if you can tie your shoes you can make this repair.
23 screws, 2 spring clamps, new part fit perfect, inspected old hoses and installed identical part.

Wife says "it's working great"

I unplugged washer from wall, removed lower front panel, two screws, then unplugged the pump motor, then removed the two hoses going to and from the pump, spring clamps on hoses, used pliers, removed the two screws with a nut driver that hold the pump/motor assembly to the frame. I then reversed the whole procedure and all is fine now.
I also noticed that the new pump impeller has four blades and the old one had only three, both old and new are made in italy, I assume this makes the pump more efficient.
End of story!!!!!!!!

Let's see...removed lower panel-used tools to unscrew the unit---one piece-nice to replace---EASY to replace! Removed hose---placed hose on new unit; screwed all back to bottom of washer-replaced lower panel...Voila! Made sure unit was balanced...did a load of whites---Awesome WASHER NOW!!!