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PartSelect Number PS2340953
This part is black in color and comes with the touchpad membrane. The electronic control board is NOT included with this control panel.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I ordered a new control panel, latch assembly and latch handle. The panel and latch assembly (which includes two contact switches) came quickly, the cheapest part (latch handle) was on back order. I was surpised when the handle came because it included a new latch assembly with the handle already attached, maybe an improved design? I shut off elecricity to the dishwasher, opened the door and removed the 11 torx T-20 screws. The inner panel lifts up and I then unplugged the electrical connector at the soap dispenser, unplugged the 2 connectors at the latch assembly contact switches (remember which is which). The inner panel can be removed and set aside. These connectors are tight coming off, so use care and maybe some Channel locks to wiggle them loose. If your changing the control panel, remove the cover over the circuit board, a ribbon connector goes into this and has a sliding collar, slide up to loosen and remove the ribbon, fully insert the new ribbon and slide back down to tighten. I used a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws holding the panel. The latch assembly with handle attached snaps into brackets on the panel, re-install the control panel, routing the ribbon cable carefully. Replace the cover over the electronics, plug all the elecrical connections back in, replace the torx screws. Turn on the power. The new parts seem much better than the original.
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All other lights on the front control panel were lighting up but the dishwasher would not start. I checked the float in the front right hand side on the floor of the dishwasher to make sure it was not stuck. I also made sure the door would "click" when shut. I went on line and found out that the most common problem with this brand of dishwasher not starting was a bad control panel. It was simple to replace.
After purchasing some torx head screwdrivers, it was easy to remove the front door of the diswasher and see that a few tiny plastic pieces had broken on the latch, rendering the entire dishwasher unusable. I found all of the broken pieces, and it took about 5 minutes to order replacement parts from partselect.com. What a great website! The schematics made it simple to identify exactly the parts I needed. The parts arrived promptly, fit perfectly, and installation was a breeze.
First , unplug your dishwasher from the outlet.Then remove the 9screws all the way around the inside of the door,followed by removing the 2 screws that hold the latch, 2 screws that hold the panel and 2 screws that hold the black case containing the electronic circuit board. You need to open up the black case in order to remove the thin cable that connects to the circuit board and which makes everything work. (You get a new one allready attached with the new panel). Next go to the latch assembly.You alsoneed to unhook the black & white leads. Take your time here and pull them straight back and slowly with a pair of needlenose pliers. They are stubborn so just take your time.To be safe I drew a small diagram to make sure that I hooked the white back to the right connection. Once the part s were received , I put the new panel on, connected the cable to the circuit board, closed the case and put the screws back in. Next , I put the black & white wires back on the switch ( based on my diagram) , put the 2 screws in the latch locations and then put the remaining screws back into the inside door. Plugged it in , tested it, and everything worked just fine.So far the wife hasn't used her herculean strength again. This is a Maytag & things aren't supposed to break. Last note: Your telephone person was a jewel. The latch was shown as NLA (No longer available). She took the time when I called to follow up on the part number and find another number made by another company by special order. Absolutely first class in my book. Kudos to her.Thanks again, service was good and delivery was within 5 days.
Just had to remove the screws from the inside of the washer. Took the screws off of the control panel. Disconected the wires (easy) then replaced with the new part. Much easier than I thought it would be, I might be thinking of doing repairs for other people now... thank you so much
1. De-energize appliance at your electrical circuit breaker panel.2. using torx # 15 remove the back cover of the door. Careful not to pull on wiring between door and cover.3. Remove the cover to the circuit board to access the control panel "ribbon" 4. carefully and gently pry the plastic tab which secures the ribbon to the circuit board. The ribbon will be released and then remove the control panel two mounting screws on either side. 5. Don't worry, this takes longer to read than to perform the required steps.6.Now install the new panel, do not tighten the screws until you have all the screws in just snug.place the ribbon connector into the slot at the circuit board, secure it with the tab by pressing gently until its secured. 7. Completely tighten all control panel and circuit board cover screws, place back cover and ensure that the bottom end goes over the edge of door, careful with those foam splash seal and align all screw holes, replace screws, again do not tighten until all screws are in place. 8. Turn appliance circuit breaker back on and see that the LED lights come on on the control panel. Run a test load and enjoy the feeling of a job well done.
The replacement was easy but it's frustrating that the control panel would go bad so quickly (just over 5 years old). There are about 10 torx head screws (I think T20) to take out in order to open the door. Then about 5 head head bolts to detach the control panel from the door. Finally a thin ribbon electrical connector from the control panel to the cpu board -- also attached to the door.Reassembly was pretty much the reverse -- very straight forward.I wasn't certain the control panel needed replacing as it seemed there might have been a blown breaker in the system somewhere. However, I stumbled on the instructions for sales floor demo mode (press extra rinse 5 times quickly). That showed all the lights working, so it didn't seem to be an electrical problem. You turn off demo mode by pressing the start button. That didn't work, so it seemed pretty clear the button was the problem.
first checked drain tube, no blockagethen tried to run machine but start/cancel button failed to functionsaw online that similar folks had problem with button/panel and I unscrewed the torx bolts holding the front panel together to get at the circuit stuff.sure enough, burn spot on circuit ribbon.replaced main control panel and ran diagnostics, field test instructions, etc.turned out the drain pump was dead also.2 parts and ~$100.00 later I have a "new" dishwasher...I guess it's worth it.cheaper than a repair guy or new appliance.apparently this fix is not real uncommon on these dishwashers. Good luck!
This repair was really three separate easy repairs.The top rack docking station is really simple -- pop the old one off and snap the new one on.The impeller is easy IF you have the right Torx screwdriver. You have to take a few layers of water handling plastic parts off to get the the impeller, but it's all pretty easy. I did strep a couple of Torx bits when I put one of the parts back on, but I've had this apart at least three times and they held up the first few times. I'll buy some new screws next time.There are a few things to keep in mind when changing the door latch and control panel. First, change the latch as soon as it breaks, instead of waiting for it to break more and destroy the control panel in the meantime. I'd have save $60 and most of the work if I hadn't put it off. Second, turn off the power. Changing the panel requires removing and replacing some wires, and it would be EASY to contact wires that you probably don't want to. A nutdriver makes quick work of everything that the Torx doesn't fit, and the remove/replace is pretty easy. Be attentive when refitting the ribbon cable for the control panel - if you're not familiar with this kind of connector you need to figure out the funky slidelock mechanism of the shell. It's easy though.All the parts fit perfectly, and appear to be factory exact replacements. It works fine now, too.
Turn off power to the Dishwasher at your breaker panel.If you haven't done so, turn off the power to the Dishwasher at your breaker panel.Using a star-shaped screw bit, remove the perimeter screws around the inner edge of the door panel. Remove the screws connecting the control unit to the control panel. Detach the cables from the latch assembly by pulling the connectors loose.Detach the ribbon-cable connecting the control panel to he control unit by gently sliding (prying) the connector on the control unit circuit card. Attach the new Latch Assy to the new Control Panel with a couple screws previously removed.Attach the ribbon cable of the new control panel to the control unit by just pushing it in and sliding the connector back together.Attach the cables back to the Latch Assy.Clean up the edges of the door while easy to get to.Use a screw driver to push in on the latch assy (where the machine latches to close the door)Put the door back in place and replace all the screws.Close the door and turn on the breaker in your breaker panel.Try out the dishwasher.VWHALLA!
Removed all of the screws holding the door assembly together. Removed controller cover to access the ribbon cable. Slipped the ribbon cable out of it's connector. Removed the control panel assembly. Installed a new latch handle in the new control panel assembly. Re-assembled the door, being careful to route the wires correctly and place the latch in proper position. Installed all of the screws about half tight. Tighten all the screws bringing the door assembly together a little at the time to prevent warping. Done.
The repair was actually easy. The difficulty was in correctly assigning blame to either the control panel (the old one still works) or the control board (the old one had indeed failed). Not all of the the part suppliers are clear on how to determine the part series (10, 11, 18, or 19) from the DW serial number.I have now been running a new Series 19 control board with a new Series 10 Control Panel for almost a week. with no issues.
Very simple repair. First I removed all the screws on the inner door cover and then the screws holding the control panel to the door. I also had to remove the CPU to get it out of the way (two screws) to access the contact for the ribbon connector . When I pulled the contact for the ribbon conector away from the old panel, the small plastic sleeve holding it to its receptor came loose. I was worried I had ruined the receptor but it was a simple matter to insert the ribbon into the receptor and slide the sleeve over it to secure it. In a few minutes I put everything back together and Voila! Everything works like a charm. One estimate was $150 minimum to come out to the house, let alone the cost of the part. I saved myself a bundle, restored my male esteem and am anxious to have my next appliance break down so I can fix it.
Discinnect the electrical powen. Took inside door off replaced. Removed the door switch and control panel. Re inaralled the new parts and inside door panel. Real easy.
Utilized PartSelect's wonderful website to locatethe two parts required for this repair. Happily, parts arrived a day early so immediately removed inner door liner's 10 screws.Lifted liner enough to note how & where connections between door panel and mechanism. Then unplugged connections from old panel and reconnected to replacement in same order. Snapped in new handle...it connects in two places. Reattached front panel's screws. Closed door and started wash cycle. Everything works!Spent $170 for both parts but save $500-$700 fora new appliance. Very happy camper! Thanks!
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