Control Panel with Touch Pad

I ordered a new control panel, latch assembly and latch handle. The panel and latch assembly (which includes two contact switches) came quickly, the cheapest part (latch handle) was on back order. I was surpised when the handle came because it included a new latch assembly with the handle already attached, maybe an improved design?
I shut off elecricity to the dishwasher, opened the door and removed the 11 torx T-20 screws. The inner panel lifts up and I then unplugged the electrical connector at the soap dispenser, unplugged the 2 connectors at the latch assembly contact switches (remember which is which). The inner panel can be removed and set aside. These connectors are tight coming off, so use care and maybe some Channel locks to wiggle them loose. If your changing the control panel, remove the cover over the circuit board, a ribbon connector goes into this and has a sliding collar, slide up to loosen and remove the ribbon, fully insert the new ribbon and slide back down to tighten.
I used a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws holding the panel. The latch assembly with handle attached snaps into brackets on the panel, re-install the control panel, routing the ribbon cable carefully. Replace the cover over the electronics, plug all the elecrical connections back in, replace the torx screws. Turn on the power. The new parts seem much better than the original.

After purchasing some torx head screwdrivers, it was easy to remove the front door of the diswasher and see that a few tiny plastic pieces had broken on the latch, rendering the entire dishwasher unusable. I found all of the broken pieces, and it took about 5 minutes to order replacement parts from partselect.com. What a great website! The schematics made it simple to identify exactly the parts I needed.
The parts arrived promptly, fit perfectly, and installation was a breeze.

Just had to remove the screws from the inside of the washer. Took the screws off of the control panel. Disconected the wires (easy) then replaced with the new part. Much easier than I thought it would be, I might be thinking of doing repairs for other people now... thank you so much

This repair was really three separate easy repairs.

The top rack docking station is really simple -- pop the old one off and snap the new one on.

The impeller is easy IF you have the right Torx screwdriver. You have to take a few layers of water handling plastic parts off to get the the impeller, but it's all pretty easy. I did strep a couple of Torx bits when I put one of the parts back on, but I've had this apart at least three times and they held up the first few times. I'll buy some new screws next time.

There are a few things to keep in mind when changing the door latch and control panel. First, change the latch as soon as it breaks, instead of waiting for it to break more and destroy the control panel in the meantime. I'd have save $60 and most of the work if I hadn't put it off. Second, turn off the power. Changing the panel requires removing and replacing some wires, and it would be EASY to contact wires that you probably don't want to. A nutdriver makes quick work of everything that the Torx doesn't fit, and the remove/replace is pretty easy. Be attentive when refitting the ribbon cable for the control panel - if you're not familiar with this kind of connector you need to figure out the funky slidelock mechanism of the shell. It's easy though.

All the parts fit perfectly, and appear to be factory exact replacements. It works fine now, too.

All other lights on the front control panel were lighting up but the dishwasher would not start. I checked the float in the front right hand side on the floor of the dishwasher to make sure it was not stuck. I also made sure the door would "click" when shut. I went on line and found out that the most common problem with this brand of dishwasher not starting was a bad control panel. It was simple to replace.

The repair was actually easy. The difficulty was in correctly assigning blame to either the control panel (the old one still works) or the control board (the old one had indeed failed).

Not all of the the part suppliers are clear on how to determine the part series (10, 11, 18, or 19) from the DW serial number.

I have now been running a new Series 19 control board with a new Series 10 Control Panel for almost a week. with no issues.

Easy repair. Remove inside of door with torx driver, then panel and control box with nut driver.

Disconnect wires to switches, and slide out ribbon wire to control box.

Reverse the process to reassemble. Easy.

I won't be surprised if it brakes again though.

Removed all of the screws holding the door assembly together. Removed controller cover to access the ribbon cable. Slipped the ribbon cable out of it's connector. Removed the control panel assembly. Installed a new latch handle in the new control panel assembly. Re-assembled the door, being careful to route the wires correctly and place the latch in proper position. Installed all of the screws about half tight. Tighten all the screws bringing the door assembly together a little at the time to prevent warping. Done.

I first unplugged the unit, then removed the screws from the inside door panel. Tilted that forward enough to removed screws holding faceplate and handle latch assembly. Unplugged the wires to the latch assembly (takes a lot of tugging to get them unplugged). Unplugged the ribbon cable and then reinstalled all the new parts. The ribbon cable just pushes in to connect. Replaced all the screws, you're good to go. Very straight forward and easy!

Discinnect the electrical powen. Took inside door off replaced. Removed the door switch and control panel. Re inaralled the new parts and inside door panel. Real easy.