2340910-1-S-Whirlpool-6-917075-Discharge Pump Housing
2340910-1-S-Whirlpool-6-917075-Discharge Pump Housing 2340910-2-S-Whirlpool-6-917075-Discharge Pump Housing http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/53879.gif

Discharge Pump Housing

PartSelect Number PS2340910

This part is located under lower spray arm.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Not draining.
  • Compare At

    $100.84
  • You Save

    $16.81
  • Your Price

    $84.03
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 41 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 41
 

60 of 67 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerStephen from Sante Fe, NM

Grinding noise during wash and rinse

First off, I must give thanks to Partselect.com for excellent service. They had the parts I needed, a Diagram of how the parts should go into the Dishwasher, and shipping was very quick and reasonable priced. Thank you Partselect.com.


After dinner we heard our Maytag MDB5100AWW dishwasher start grinding during its wash cycle. Needless to say we found this quite concerning, as this is not what a healthy dishwasher should sound like. After fiddling around with it, I started researching the issue and found Partselect.com where it was stated the “Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing)” was a common failure point. After disassembling the “Pump and Motor” section of the dishwasher, it was confirmed that the Discharge Housing was indeed broken. Since this Dishwasher is over 8 years old, I figured that I might as well replace a few other parts as well, since I'm in there working on it.


Following the blow-up image of the Pump and Motor picture;

Unscrew part 34

Pull out part 1

Lift Part 2, which is attached to part 36

Unscrew part 5 (6 of them) from part 4, be careful not to loose part 3, sitting inside part 4

Lift out part 6 and 7

Unscrew part 8 and lift out part 9

Unscrew part 27 (three of them) and lift out part 11

The bottom plate of this part is the broken part.


Now, since we are in here replacing a part, we might as well replace a few other parts and give this dishwasher a little longer life. I opted to replace the following parts as well, being that my dishwasher was over 8 years old and the gaskets were showing some age.

Part 4 – Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly; I replaced this part because food often gets caught inside the filters and will throw off the balance during a wash or rinse, thus putting premature wear on bearings and o-rings. My filter had a bunch of food on one side, and the only way to remove the food was to slit open a section of the filter, thus damaging the filter screen.

Part 37 – O-Ring that goes inside the Pump Cover and Secondary Filter Assembly. O-rings are rubber and do wear with age. My dishwasher didn't even have this o-ring; now it does.

Part 3 – Lower Spray Arm Seal; I noticed when pulling these parts out that the hard water in our living area was making these somewhat brittle. When ordering these, get two of them, as the picture indicates. If you order one, the package only contains one, and not two was the image shows it should have.

Part 11 – Discharge Housing Assembly (Discharge Pump Housing). This is the part that is making all the grinding noise. The new part will show that it is built a little differently. It appears that Maytag figured out the weak design of this part and made the replacements stronger.

Part 17 – Even though I ordered this, you don't need to order this part if you order the Part 10 kit. The part 10 kit will include this o-ring. Because its an O-ring, I replaced it; as stated above, o-rings do breakdown.

Part 25 – Pump Gasket; This part should really be called the Pump Housing Gasket, as it isolates the Pump Housing bucket and the Dishwasher tub. I bought this because my original gasket was looking pretty nasty and was coming apart.

Part 10 – Seal Kit (Motor/Pump) (Motor/Pump Impeller and Seal Assembly), this kit includes several components that if purchased separately would easily be twice the cost of this kit. Again, seals and Motor Pump seals are a good thing to replace when needing to do work inside the dishwasher.


Continuing on from the previous dis-assembly list;

Unscrew part 12 and remove part 14, 15 and 16.

Unroll part 17 (o-ring) and remove part 18.

Unscrew parts 19 and carefully remove part 20, being VERY careful to not loose part 39.

Lift out part 22, which will include the bearing inside of part 22.

Pry out part 24 with a pick (the replacement is in the kit of part 10).

To remove part 25, you must Remove part 12 of the Door Assembly (see the Door image) to reach the motor element.

Next unscrew part 14 of the “TUB” i

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Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerLarry from Bellefonte, PA

Dishwasher began making a grinding noise that sounded like someone being tortured

Figure out how to remove the spray arm (15 min); remove all the parts below (15 min); figure out what's not right (5 min). the pump discharge head is two parts. The flat disk that is attached to the under side of the discharge head came off and was being ground up by the impeller nut. Hence the noise. I superglued it back together and ordered the replacement parts. the superglue lasted through about 1 rinse cycle. The repair parts arrived the following day, and since I already knew how to disassemble and reassemble, the actual replacement was about 15 minutes. The dishwasher hasn't been this quiet in over 2 years.

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14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Discharge Pump Housing

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerMichael from Lost Creek, WV

Machine began making noise as if something had let go and was beating on the machine

I removed the plastic retainer that held the lower spray arm in place. After removing the lower spray arm I was able to remove the 6 hex screws that held the cover over the filter screen and the discharge housing assembly. I was then able to remove the bolts that held the upper part of the discharge housing assembly, and replaced it with the new part that I received. The rest of the job was simply putting it back together.

Note: While repairing the broken part, I noticed a small leak under the machine around the float assembly. This was simple to fix. Remove the small lock ring on the bottom of the float. Pull the float out and clean the grease and soap scum out of it. Put it back in and attach the lock ring. No more leak and the water gets turned off when the float activates the switch. Something that everyone should check periodically.

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10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerNidhal from Hillsborough, NC

Noise after water disharge.

Using the part list (on your web site)as a guide to remove the parts,Part 32 remove by hand turning counter clockwise,remove screws #5,remove parts(33,34,31,2).
Remove #36 remove 4,3,,6,7,,8,9,remove screws#27 then remove #11 which has a plate part of it but broke on the underside (you can't see it in the picture)it will rub on the fins of part#14 during the cycle when dishes are being washed creating a grinding noise.
i Do suggest to replace the seals,38,37,you may coat the new seals with liquid hand soap for easier installation.

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7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerJoe from Franklin, NC

Lots of noise and wouldn't pump

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

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