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PartSelect Number PS2338895
This kit comes with the float stem, gasket and switch.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This dishwasher float is used for overfill protection.
***UPDATE: This part no longer comes with the cork seal on the shaft.
Water that fills your dishwasher lifts this float, and when it reaches a certain level, it acts as a trigger for the float switch. The float triggers the float switch to shut off, thereby shutting off the flow of water into the dishwasher.
Also known as a washer.
Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resistance of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.Aha!I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done. This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.
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put new switch and new gasket on old float stem with old nut. but it still overflows about 1/2 cup of water through stem
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