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PartSelect Number PS232646
This kit includes one ceramic block with 6" wire leads, 2 wire nuts and 2 heat shrink with mounting bracket.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
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1. Pulled out drawer2. Vacuumed dust, etc. under stove3. Reached under stove to rear and pulled plug4. Pulled the stove out away from wall so I could get to back5. Removed 5 screws that retained the back of the control panel6. One by one, I removed each wire from an old control and pushed it onto the same pin on the new control - did same for all 4 burner controls7. Removed the knobs8. Removed 2 screws from the front panel for each old control and removed the old controls9. Pushed each of the new controls into place on the panel and reused screws to secure them in place10. Cut the long control stems using 2 pliers per instructions to match length of old controls.11. Used knob adapters provided to mate the old knobs to the new control stems12. Plugged the stove in and tested the burners13. Unplugged and replace the panel back with original screws14. Moved stove back into place15. The right front burner was the one most used, so I replaced the connector for that burner.16. That connector came with instructions that I followed - cut the wires to the old connector, splice the wires to the new connector wires using supplied wire nuts and shrink tubing.17. Plugged the stove back in18. Replaced drawer - job complete - stove like new
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts. Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly. To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers). After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through. Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves. Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.Job done:-)
Really simple. Shut off circuit breaker. Removed 4 counter top screws and slid out the built in stove. Removed 2 screws holding element in oven and removed back cover. Pulled leads off element in back since I couldn't remove from the front then removed element from oven front. Replaced the element and reversed the procedures. For the top burner, I cut the leads about 2 inches from terminal block and removed the screw holding the block. Afer stripping the wires, I used the wire nut supplied and reconnected the terminal block. Replaced the terminal block screw, slid stove back in and reversed removal procedure.Turned power on and everthing worked. One problem occured with the terminal block; the connecting hole for the screw was 90 degrees off. I had to bend it to a 180 degree configuration for the screw to be installed.
I had already removed the worn out part. The new part came with wire joint covers and connecting them was fine. The brace that came with the part did not actually fit onto the stove burner well; so I cleaned and used the older brace - but, when I went to put it back in place, the bearings on the original self locking bolt were stripped. So, I had to find a replacement bolt with a nut. Found that I had some of those on hand. Once the brace was firmly in place, the rest was easy!
A very easy fix-Unplug stove, remove back plate, remove non-working element and drip pan, unscrew terminal plug and push it through to back of unit to have room to work, cut wires to old terminal plug approx 4" from plug, inspect remaining wires for damage and if all is OK, strip old wires and wires of new plug approx 1/2", twist together and cap with wire nuts, cover with shrink wrap and warm with heat gun, push newly replaced terminal plug back into stove top, screw to terminal plug holder, replace back plate, plug in and replace drip pan and NEW element. Worked like a charm!
I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,
simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.
First I disconnected the power. Then I removed the burner element and drip pan. Using the screwdriver I removed the single screw that holds the terminal block in place. I then cut the 2 wires to the old terminal block. I connected the wires of the new block to the existing wires using the supplied wire nuts. Next I slipped the supplied heat shrink tubing over the wire nut and wires and using the heat gun I applied heat to the shrink wrap. Finally I reinstalled the new terminal block using the old screw and re-installed the drip pan and burner. I repeated the procedure for 2 other burners that were exhibiting the same problem. All work perfectly.
The terminal bloctk silver attachment did not fit our stove. We had to use the old one and take off a little of the nipple that snapped it into place .used a bench grinder for that.The rest was easy. Used a heat gun paint stripper to shrink the shrink wrap,Saved a big repair bill.
i removed it and installed the new ones.
I turned the power off to the stove (very important). then I unplugged the heating element from the terminal. I then unscrewed the terminal from the range top and pulled the terminal through to expose enough wire to do the job. I then proceeded to cut one wire from the old terminal and twist the new wire onto the wire that goes to the switch. Then I capped it off with the electric cap that came with the new terminal. then I covered the exposed wires with the sleeve that came with new terminal. Then I did the same exact thing for the second wire. After that was all done I put everything back together and turned the power back on.
Remove the element and pan. Unscrew the bracket holding the old terminal. The terminal has adequate wire to pull out. Found area where insulation wasn't brittle. Cut old wires and stripped them to expose 1/2 inch of wire. Attached wires from new terminal with wire nuts. Placed heat-shrink tubing over each assembly and shrank it with a heat gun. Retained the bracket from the old terminal, since it looked like it would hold the terminal assembly a bit more firmly than the new bracket. Reassembled in reverse order. Presto -- once again disappointing my wife in her desire for new appliances!
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