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PartSelect Number PS232617
This ceramic terminal block kit includes one ceramic block and terminal assembly with mounting bracket. Terminal blocks generally provide an easy solution for connecting individual wires.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
On Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, I placed an order for two replacement burners, four new pans, and two receptacle ASM's for my 30+ year old GE stove. I didn't know the exact model number, but because of your very informative website, I was able to look at the parts and find what I needed. Much to my amazement, the parts arrived the next day (24 hours after ordering!). I didn't pay for overnight or weekend delivery. You quickly fulfilled the order and shipped it the same day. It really was a great surprise to see the parts so quickly. To top it off, the installation was so simple that my 3 and 5 year olds helped out (after disconnecting the power first!) the installation was so straight forward, that my 5 year old unscrewed the nut that held the receptacle in place while the 3 year old unwrapped the new pans. All I needed was a Phillips head screw driver and a open ended wrench to complete the job. I replaced all the parts and had a stove that looked brand new (and worked) within 10 minutes. After 5 years of fighting a stove the intermittently worked, worrying about where to get parts, and wondering if I needed to purchase a new stove, it is all over. My wife is happy, I am happy, and my kids are happy that they had a fun Saturday project to help dad with. If I only knew about PartSelect 5 years ago, we would have been cooking worry free, knowing the stove is actually heating up.The procedure was simple! Here is what I did:1.) disconnected the power by lifting up the lever under the stove that held the power cable.2.) Removed the burners by simply pulling them out of the socket, and removed the drip pans.3.) used a wrench set to remove the screw holding the ceramic terminal block in place4.) removed the wires from the back of the terminal block with a Phillips head screw driver. On one of the burners, the terminal block assembly was so damaged, I used the pliers to break the ceramic and then held onto the receiving terminal to loosen the screw.5.) connected the new terminal block. I made sure by simply screwing on the wires. I made sure I clipped in the new plastic covering that protected the screws.6.) re-attached the terminal assembly block to the stove top. BE CAREFUL so as to not over-tighten, you can strip the screw7.) installed the new drip pans.8.) re-connected the power by simply plugging in the main power and re-camping the quick-disconnect.9.) Checked the stove to make sure everything worked.10.) Cooked dinner!
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First I pulled the heating elements from socketsRemoved 1/4 " screw from socket brackets. Removed two wires from socket , reversed procedure, tested , work fine ,wife happy, me happy. Parts were delivered in 3 days.
I had already removed the terminal block assembly, a total of three screws. When the part arrived it was as simple as connecting the two wires in the back of the assembly (power turned off!) then one screw to attach the assembly to the stove top. Power back on and a brand new burner. The same day I went and ordered four drip pans to replace the old ones and the stove looks like new. Finding the part at the on-line site was the best part since I tried two other sites that were not very easy.
The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.
The interesting part of this story was troubleshooting the problem. Was it the element or the control? Turns out the element was making poor contact, generating excess heat ,which corroded the element contact generating even more heat, and so on and so on until the termional block eventually broke. The repair itself was simple once I separated the element from the terminal block. After that I removed the terminal block, one screw, removed the connecting wires, two screws, reversed the procedure to install the the new terminal boplck and element. Before the whole process began I made sure to turn the breaker to OFF.
Removed old terminal block by removing one mounting screw. Removed two wires from block. Installed new terminal block by reversing procedure.
First I removed the one screw that hold the terminal block in place. I then pulled the terminal block out about 3 inches and unscrewed the two screws and disconnected the two wires. Then I got the new terminal block and re-attached the two wires with the two screws. Then I screwed the terminal blocked with the one screw and then I inserted the 8" Surface Element and I turned it on and it heated up very quickly. It works better than it has in many years.
Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.
Unplugged oven from mains.Removed screw holding terminal block to oven top. Used screwdriver to remove clip holding protective card to terminal block. Removed Philips screws holding wires onto terminal block.Replacing the terminal block was just doing the above instructions in reverse. The only thing different was to put the speed clip on the range top before attaching the block to the range top.
Shut off power! Removed oven racks, squeezed into the oven and removed screws securing the broiler element. Uplugged terminals from old element. Plugged terminals on new element and mounted it to the back of the oven. Surface elements are quick-disconnect replacement type. Just tilted up, pulled out and replaced with new one. One of them had welded into the receptical, requireing me to dismount the receptical and unscrew the wires. Best part identifier system I've ever seen -- wish car parts places would use this technique!
I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.
I turned off the circut breaker and disconnected the old terminal block - some difficulty removing the wires because of corrsion - I was able to reconnect the wires to the new block quickly and I was done - fast and easy - so happy to have found the part so easily with your program. Thank you
The only hard part of the job is removing the old, corroded terminal block. Be careful not to break the electrical wire. Other than that, just sand the contacts and reassemble. This is the second one I have replace on my 4 burner stove. 2 more to go.
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