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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4". This kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. *Please note: the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. This part is used to heat your oven.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.
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Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.
This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.
Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.
two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!
Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.
I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy
After reading number of repair testimonials I was able to narrow it to the valve or the Igniter. I felt that the Igniter was best to try first and this was the problem. One of the tests is to verify the current that the Igniter was consuming. I felt that it was just best to replace it first and then see if this needed further investigation. Vola my first assumption corrected the problem. Parts pricing is very good thru PartSelect and there shipping time was very efficient.
replaced the igniter by first removing the pan inside the oven, two screws in the rear. Igniter is attached to the burner with two machine screws, nut driver or small wrench is needed. Remove the lower drawer and un-clip plasitc connection located in the rear up high. Pull the wire and clip through into oven. Replace with new inginater, pull wires and clip through the back of oven and tighten screws, plug clip in, replace pan and plug in oven, done.
Needed to replace the part in oven which lights the gas. My husband is more of a supervisor rather than a fix it yourself kind of guy. But he did it and it was hilarious watching him squeeze in a place meant for a smaller person with tiny hands, while holding the flashlight in his mouth. But the oven is fixed and works like brand new. Thank you
Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.
igniter was not glowing bright...removed old one and installed new one all within 30 mins.Part was exactly as description and picture really helped. Turkey for Thanksgiving will be served cooked by my oven.Thanks.. Daniel
Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now
Unhooked old one, installed new one. Piece of cake.
the part fit perfect so 5 min, done, thanks for the right part the frist time, I will be back
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