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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4". This kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. *Please note: the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. This part is used to heat your oven.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
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removed the old one went to plug in the new one but plug wasnt the same so i cut the old plug off and attched it to the new igniter with the wire nuts sent with the part and it works like new.
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly. This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!
removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.
oven and stove top burners worked fine, but broiler would not light. diagnosed problem as bad igniter. ordered parts on line and received them next day with regular shipping!removed oven door and bake racks. removed old igniter and snipped wires.installed new igniter and used ceramic wire nuts to attach wire leads.reinstalled door and racks.works fine. who knew home repairs could be so easy and fun!
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .
I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.
e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.
At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.
Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM
I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.
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