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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style oven igniter kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. The igniter kit is used to heat your oven. If you notice that your oven will not heat up properly, the igniter kit may need to be replaced. This flat style gas oven igniter has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. When completing this repair, the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to the range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. Before you begin this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven, and shut off the gas supply.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!Thanks for the quick service,Tom
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In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover. Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed. Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriverPlaced new Igniter onPlug Igniter in and tested ovenReplace burner cover and drawerThis was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.
First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.
First I removed the botoom drawer.Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner. Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.The oven now works as it should.
Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.
Replaced the flat style oven igniter. First, I watched the video on your web site, and used it as a reference to make the repair. I did remove the oven door tho, as it made it easier to complete the work, the video didn't show the door being removed. The video was very helpful.
I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.
Started investigating by pulling out the igniter glow coil. Looked mostly white and not dark metal like it should. Ordered the part online. Came in two days. Popped the new one in and the oven started right up within 15 seconds.
This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse
I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.
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