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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4". This kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. *Please note: the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. This part is used to heat your oven.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .
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I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.
e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.
First I removed the botoom drawer.Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner. Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.
At first I didn't believe it was the igniter due to the fact that it was lighting up, but after reading some of these post, I thought I would give it a try. I accessed the igniter from the broiler drawer after taking out the pans. I removed two bolts with my nut driver and disconnected the wires at the plastic connector after removing the heat shield with a phillips screwdriver (1 screw). I also had to remove a clip to get the wires to pull threw the back of the stove. Here is where the fun began...While waiting on the part to arrive, I decided that it would be a good time to thoroughly clean the entire unit. During this process, I lifted the top of the range to far and cracked both front burner gas lines. After running around town trying to find the gas lines with no luck, I returned home and ordered them from PartSelect as well. The igniter arrived one day and the gas tubes the next. I reassembled the unit and everything works like new, thanks to PartSelect. One other note, when my igniter arrived, It had the exact same electrical plug that my original one had. Some of these post said that you would have to cut the connector off and use the porcelain wire nuts provided. The parts I received were manufacturer parts, no off brand replacements. Again Thank You PartSelect.
Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM
I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.
Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.
This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.
Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.
two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!
Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.
I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy
After reading number of repair testimonials I was able to narrow it to the valve or the Igniter. I felt that the Igniter was best to try first and this was the problem. One of the tests is to verify the current that the Igniter was consuming. I felt that it was just best to replace it first and then see if this needed further investigation. Vola my first assumption corrected the problem. Parts pricing is very good thru PartSelect and there shipping time was very efficient.
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