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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4". This kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. *Please note: the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. This part is used to heat your oven.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed oven racks, removed lower oven shelf panel by using a flathead screwdriver and removed two screws on the back edge of the panel. Removed flat style ignitor (two hex head screws)from the gas burner tube using a 3/16 nutdriver. Disconnected two wires from the ignitor. Removed the two pin connector from the new ignitor, stripped the insulation to expose about a 1/4 inch of bare wire at the ends of the wire where the connector was removed. Installed the ignitor to the gas burner tube using the 3/16 hexhead screws. Connected the wires using porcelain wire nuts. Re-installed the lower oven shelf panel, flathead screws and the oven racks. Oven worked as advertised.
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Removed the screws that held the shield in place. Then unplugged the igniter and removed the 2 screws that hold igniter in place. I had to cut the connector off the new igniter and wire nut the old connector on because of a different connector.I then put everything back together and ooolaalaa, it worked!!!!!!!Thanks for the quick service,Tom
In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover. Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed. Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriverPlaced new Igniter onPlug Igniter in and tested ovenReplace burner cover and drawerThis was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!
Unplugged the stove and pulled it out from the wall. Took the metal shield off the back of stove held by 2 screws. Unplugged the Molex connector for the igniter. unscrewed the round metal shield covering the opening where the igniter wires run to the back of the stove. Removed the 2 screws that held igniter bracket to the burner. Next, I pulled the wires and Molex connector through the opening. Installed new igniter in the reverse order. Be very careful with new igniter as they are very fragile and can break easily.
First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.
In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.
had to take back off of oven because of the connector and the plug end insert had the wrong pin so i had to take it apart and use old ones then i put the assembly in /and put oven back together
remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.
To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.The oven now works as it should.
This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse
I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly. This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
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