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PartSelect Number PS231280
The flat style oven igniter kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. The igniter kit is used to heat your oven. If you notice that your oven will not heat up properly, the igniter kit may need to be replaced. This flat style gas oven igniter has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. When completing this repair, the connector plug might need to be removed and spliced to the range wiring using porcelain wire nuts. Before you begin this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven, and shut off the gas supply.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Disconnect power. Remove oven door, oven racks, bottom pan, drawer below the oven. unsnap igniter wire connector. Remove two screws holding the igniter in place, remove igniter.Install igniter (placing igniter wires away from any heat producing parts) and all parts in reverse order as they were removed.Oven heats good now, makes great cornbread and biscuits, the wife helps the oven do this.
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Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven. This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench. The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws. I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too. The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven. When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
1. Removed oven door..2. Slide out floor plate of over.3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.
I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old switch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!
I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws then did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com
I deturmined that the flame starter was not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve (safety valve) . pulled two hand screws and removed floor of oven exposing the flame bar and flame starter. removed two screws on flame starter. removed lower pan drawer and disconected the electrical plug for flame starter. replaced in reverse order. easy.
Removed oven racks, removed lower oven shelf panel by using a flathead screwdriver and removed two screws on the back edge of the panel. Removed flat style ignitor (two hex head screws)from the gas burner tube using a 3/16 nutdriver. Disconnected two wires from the ignitor. Removed the two pin connector from the new ignitor, stripped the insulation to expose about a 1/4 inch of bare wire at the ends of the wire where the connector was removed. Installed the ignitor to the gas burner tube using the 3/16 hexhead screws. Connected the wires using porcelain wire nuts. Re-installed the lower oven shelf panel, flathead screws and the oven racks. Oven worked as advertised.
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