2200270-1-S-Whirlpool-Y303836-Blower Wheel with Clip
2200270-1-S-Whirlpool-Y303836-Blower Wheel with Clip 2200270-2-S-Whirlpool-Y303836-Blower Wheel with Clip http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/36762.gif

Blower Wheel with Clip

PartSelect Number PS2200270

This comes with a metallic hub clip to hold it firmly in place.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Too hot.
  • Compare At

    $18.84
  • You Save

    $3.14
  • Your Price

    $15.70
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Blower Wheel Clamp

Part Number 600181

This clamp is used for the blower wheel.

Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
$4.98
In Stock

Tumbler and Motor Belt

Part Number 2200550

At 100" in length, this dryer drum belt is 3/8" wide and has 5 ridges. This is the belt that is from the tumbler to the main drive motor.

$12.04
Special Order

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.2 / 5.0, 141 reviews What's this?
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511 of 512 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Blower Wheel with Clip
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Lafayette, IN

The blower fan (nylon) stripped off the motor shaft (steel)

Removed the front cover (screws on bottom 0f face)...removed blower cover....spring pliers to remove and install blower fan. the rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the shell as well as the vent. Reassembled and dryer runs better than it has for many years.

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482 of 566 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Raymond from West Bend, WI

Electric dryer was rumbling - wheel or belt?

Unplugged dryer. Front came off easily. Removed front of blower. Wheel came off fairly easily - could then see that shaft of motor was circular with flattened side but inside of old wheel was rounded. New wheel popped right on. Took tumbler off so I could clean lint out more easily and get a good view of how the belt threaded through. Put the tumbler back on and reached back with both hands to thread it. Took a half dozen tries until I was sure it was seated correctly and not twisted. Put front... of dryer back on. So far (a week or so) the rumble is gone. Seems blower wheel was the cause of the rumble. Belt didn't seem worn but replaced anyhow.

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198 of 269 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Brian from Mechanicsville, VA

Loud rumbling noise on dryer startup

I searched the internet and found my symptoms really seemed to indicate a problem with the blower wheel, which was very noisy. Feeling confident that was what I needed, I ordered the blower wheel, and also the tumbler belt (the belt was 12 years old). Both parts were genuine Maytag and arrived quickly. Before the order arrived, I went ahead and UNPLUGGED THE DRYER and disassembled the dryer using the partselect.com helpful parts diagrams and the repair notes of others. This allowed me to confirm the blower wheel was in fact loose on the motor shaft. I removed the old blower wheel and belt. Shop vac'd out the entire dryer cabinet. This way I was able to take my time with preparation, and when the new parts arrived, I was ready to just pop them into place. If you disassemble before you order, you can also determine if the tumbler front guide set and /or rear tumbler roller wheels also need to be replaced (mine did not), but this would have been the perfect time to replace those too. I saved a bunch of money and have the satisfaction of having done this job myself. Dryer works great now.

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112 of 177 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: David from Germantown, TN

Belt worn and blower wheel loose.

I noticed a rattling noise coming from the dryer. I disassembled the dryer to troubleshoot. I assumed the rollers were bad, but I discovered that the blower wheel was loose on the motor shaft. The rollers were fine. I also discovered the belt was worn.

I ordered a new blower wheel and belt. Replacement was as described elsewhere.

I couldn't get to the screws on the front panel because my screwdriver was too long. So I put a pressure treated 2x4 under the front dryer legs to elevate it. I used pressure treated lumber because that's what was in the garage. Untreated wood would also work.

After removing the front panel screws, the bottom of the front panel needs to be tilted away from the dryer. At about 20-30 degrees of tilt, the front panel will suddenly drop away from the top.

Rotate the front panel to your left so that the wires don't get stretched. It isn't necessary to unplug the wires. But after touching the wires and getting shocked, now is a good time to unplug the dryer. In fact, it would have been better to unplug the dryer before you start any work on it.

Remove the front bulkhead and lint filter housing as a unit. 4 screws hold it to the dryer.

Remove the screws holding the faceplate of the wheel assembly, and remove the faceplate.

Next remove the spring clip from the blower wheel shaft. Then remove the circlip using a circlip plier. The wheel will now slip off the motor shaft.

Put the new wheel on the shaft, making sure to align the flat part of the shaft with the flat part on the wheel. Install the circlip and spring clip.

Replace the faceplate, Note that the perimeter of the face plate goes inside a groove. Install the screws.

Replacing the belt has been covered before, so I'll leave it at that. Just make sure that the belt goes on the proper side of the belt guard.

Install the front bulkhead-lint filter housing. Make sure the lint filter housing lines up with the blower wheel housing and goes inside the felt.

Install the front panel. Make sure the felt doesn't get pinched by the drum.

The first time I disassembled the dryer, it took about 1.5 hours. The second time was only about 45 minutes. The third and subsequent times were even quicker. Practice makes perfect.

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85 of 147 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Blower Wheel with Clip
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Ed from Long Beach, CA

Loud rumbling at startup, periodic rumbling during drying, rumbling after motor stopped

After removing more bolts and screws than I needed to, here's how to replace the blower wheel on the stacked washer/dryer Maytag SG1000.

Turn off the power.

Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.

Remove the two screws at the top of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.

There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.

Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.

You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.

The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.

The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.

After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.

Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.

While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.

Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.

Reinstall the access door.

Turn the power back on! Done!

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