Handle and Door Latch Assembly with Switches

Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.

Turned of power at the circuit breaker first. Removed the hex nuts from the inside of the door. Latch is loose know and just need to unplug the power cords from both sides. Install new latch by reattaching the two power cords to it and reassemble. Very easy and very fast shipping had part the next day with regular shipping.

If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.

1. Turned of Power via circuit breaker
2. Opened Dishwasher
3. Removed back of door (11) hex screws with electric driver
4. Removed latch assembly
5. Pried contacts from switches
6. One switch was more difficult to pry loose than the other
7. You will probably need a plier
8. Switch or connector may break but latch assembly comes with switches, so you just need to be careful not to break the connectors
8 Plugged connectors into new switches on latch assembly
9. Replaced latch assembly
10. Replaced door with (11) hex screws - two top screws hold assembly in place
11. Turned on circuit breaker and tested machine
12. Finished

Comments: This latch assembly was better constructed than the original and I expect it to last the life of the machine. If one of the switches wasn't so difficult to pry loose, then the repair would have taken ten minutes less to repair. Well worth the effort. Repair time was probably 20-30 minutes.

AFTER CHECKING REPAIR PLACES WHO WANTED $140-$200 TO REPAIR THE HANDLE (MOST OF IT LABOR AND TRANSPORTATION OF COURSE) I CHECKED THIS WEBSITE AND READ THE DO IT YOUR SELF TESTIMONIALS THE FIRST ONE BEING WENDY FROM FLORIDA AND FIGURED IF SHE COULD DO IT SO COULD I...WASN'T QUITE AS CONFIDENT AS HER SO FOUND A HANDY PERSON (CHARGED ME $30). IT WAS A "PIECE OF CAKE" -- REMOVE THE 11 SCREWS (ALLEN SCREWDRIVER), UNCLIP THE WIRES TO THE HANDLE (PLIERS), CLIP IN THE NEW ONE, REPLACE THE SCREWS. I COULD HAVE DONE IT MYSELF. TOOK 15 MINUTES.

The repair is simple open the door and remove the perimeter screws and lift the door panel up. Be careful of attached wires. The handle only requires that you remove two electrical connectors and reconnect to the new latch handle and realign it with the screw holes in the door panel. The seals are not as easy to change they are attached with spring clips that I had to snipe through to get the old seals off. The new seals did not come with new spring clips, so I flattened the clips and reused them, they did not hold as tight, but seemed to work. Then just reinstall the panel.

As many newer appliances are, component replacement can be very easy. Unplugged the unit since I was working directly with the main electrical control unit. Removed the torx screws to access the interior door. It was then simple replacement by removing set screws for the panel. Unplug the old panel and plug in and install the new one. Only problem I had was the Latch Handle was back ordered and took about a month to get, not PartsSelect.com's fault. Handle replacement took about 5 minutes when I got it.
Now dishwasher is as good as new and works perfectly!

I was extreemly pleased with the replacement handle unit. The original unit had a plastic pivot points - the replacement part replaced these points with metal rods. The pivot points on the old unit were the points of failure.

The repair should have been done with a "star" head. Not having this, I was able to use a hex wrench instead.

The repair time was less than 10 minutes, most of that time removing and replacing the star head screws. If you have removed the old part, you have essentially completed the repair.

The biggest problem was identifying the proper handle unit. There are two very similar. Measure the distance between the mount holes in the unit and refer to the grid in the picture. The grid on your site was extreemly helpfull given the lack of part numbers printed on the Maytag OEM parts.

I unscrewed the inner door panel and the old latch assembly came out. I went to the circuit breaker and cut off power to the DW. Then I unplugged the old latch assembly and plugged the new one in. There were some springy metal pieces that had to be pushed back to get the old plug off and the new one on. After that it was just a matter of aligning the holes of the latch assembly with the holes for the screws and replacing all the screw holding the door panel, and tightening them up.

Partially removed stainless inner part of door by removing 10 screws enabling simple removal of latch assembly. Put new assembly in its place and remounted inner stainless door in reverse order.

Remove 11 screws holding cover to door, split cover from door, remove latch assembly, obtain new part and reassemble. No problems. New part is improved so hinge should never break. Satisfied 100%

turn off electricity, unscrew inside door panel, lift out handle and unhook,then, insert new handle. very simple.

Remove the screws that hold the door panel to the interior. open and remove the old door latch, unplog terminals and install the new latch. nothing to it!

Repair was fairly easy. There are 11 screws You have to remove then simply unplug the electrical connection from the door latch/switch and plug in the new one line up the screw holes tighten them down and your in business.

1. Remove the star head screws on the inside of the door.
2. Lift up the inside door panel. You might want to prop this part up with something.
3. Remove the electrical connections on each side of the old latch. This latch is not attached with any extra screws as two of the inside door screws are what hold it in place. This will be obvious when you take the door apart.
4. I used a broad flat blade screwdriver as a lever to get the electric connectors apart. Some people have said that these were quite difficult to get apart, but I did not have any problem.
5. Put the new latch in place and attach the electric connectors on each side.
6. Replace the inside door panel with the removed screws...be careful as these screws are being put into plastic and need to be properly started into the threads.
7. Door should work now. I am being extra careful when closing the door now by holding the latch up and gently pushing the door shut, then release the latch handle.
Good Luck