Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit

PartSelect Number PS2177502

Please check your model# to verify this is correct for your appliance.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.
  • Noisy.
  • Compare At

    $124.93
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    $20.82
  • Your Price

    $104.11
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.3 / 5.0, 12 reviews What's this?
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77 of 83 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsSocket set

CustomerMike from Houston, TX

Spin cycle sounded like freight train

Spin cycle sounded like freight train, bad bearing, apparently they all fail the same way, this revised parts kit should prevent premature failure in future.

The following is easy for an experienced mechanic of any type, fully doable by an accomplished DYI'er, between this writeup and the kit instructions (which I do not fully follow) you should be fine. Probably avoid this task if you aren't either of the aforementioned.

Remove lower pannel, top pannel, lift top back. Remove fill hose to outer tub, clear tube to outer tub. Remove entire outer cabinet from base, exposing base and tub. Remove augur assy by popping off cap removing inner bolt, lifting augur out. Remove top of outer tub cap assy by pressing down where each latch is and gently prying latch open with screwdriver. Remove bolts holding in inner tub and remove inner tub. Unscrew the pastic nut on transmission shaft using channel locks (counterclockwise from top), don't worry about destroying this part since a new one is in the kit. Remove (pry off with your hands, don't worry about breaking it) the 'lint filter' (looks like a frisbee) and trash it. Remove the large (about 8")aluminum hub (that the inner tub bolts to) by unscrewing counterclockwise. No special tool needed, just use air hammer if available against one of the T shaped castings to get it loose, otherwise use a drift and hammer same way. Don't worry about messing up the part since a new one is in the kit. Remove the outer tub drain hose, remove six screws holding outer tub, lift outer tub out. Turn outer tub upside down and use a wide crowbar/nail puller to CAREFULLY pry out the bearing/seal assy from the bottom of the tub. Take your time working your way completely around the bearing/seal several times so it doesn't get too crooked while removing it. Clean everything thoroughly. Inspect the area of the bottom of outer tub where you removed the bearing/seal. If all is well and there are no gouges, get it wet with clean water and then carefully press the new bearing/seal assy in with the heal of the palm of your hand, working your way around it so it doesn't get crooked while pressing in. Do not use sealer (unless there are gouges) and do not hammer this. Make sure it is fully seated in the outer tub. Do reverse to put everything back together. I tightened the aluminum hub the same way I loosened it, no problem. There are some rubber plugs in the kit to install in some holes in the tub, scrape or clean any gunk off the inner tub around these holes so the rubber plugs will seat properly. Carefully snug the plastic nut with channelocks by gripping it from the top as opposed to the side (so the fins don't break). Note there is a small o-ring on the transmission shaft to change before replacing the augur. Nice and quiet after the repair, hopefully the new kit (and trashing the 'lint filter') makes it last longer... LOL, it's a bit disturbing seeing the gunk under the augur knowing that has been there all this time while 'cleaning' the laundry! I'll probably start removing the augur every so often to clean under there.

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48 of 56 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerJohn from Salford, PA

Tub seal/bearing failed due to dirt

First removed the front panels and tilted the top back.Disconnected the electrical connector to the motor,removed the cabinet base screws and slid the entire cabinet away from the interior after disconnecting the clear tube and the water feed to the panel.removed bolt inside agitator and remove agitator.removed the plastic hold down center nut with channel lock pliers.remove top cover from outer tub(pry out over tabs with screw driver).remove 4 bolts holding inner tub and remove tub.remove inner bottom tub support with pliers(screws off).remove 6 machine screws from frame to bottom of plastic outer tub and remove tub.Carefully pry seal/bearing out of tub from the bottom(remember its just plastic).install is just the reverse of the dissassembly.Note: This is the second seal/bearing for this washing machine in less than 2 yrs..I work in the Site developement/construction field and my clothes get extremely dirty.The dirt is being held under the inner tub support and driven down thru the seals and into the bearing(great design).This go around the intsructions called for the removal of the plastic lint filter under the tub support which I believe was a large part of the problem.I hope so.I'm not going to spend $90 every 2 yrs. on this machine.Good luck.

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41 of 46 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)

CustomerRAYMUND from WEST COVINA, CA

Maytag washer leaks, noisy

1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!

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20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Socket set

CustomerJames from Saint Paul, MN

Loud during spin cycle

Amana top load laundry machine
Model # NAV2230AWW
Parts used: PS2040734 and PS2177502

NOTE: the hub seal kit comes with the gasket foam and hub nut so do not order them separately as I did. PartSelect is great about accepting returns, but you might as well know ahead of time.

When you are starting this project out, there are a few things you should be prepared with. First, you will need an extension for your ratchet so that you can get at the bolt in the center of the agitator. Second, make sure you have some sealant or grease on hand for the installation of the hub nut.

Actual dis-assembly of the washer is not difficult. Simply remove the lower front panel followed by the main front panel and then separate the outer shell. Once all these parts are removed you can remove the agitator and all the various tub parts. The instructions that come with the kit are detailed enough to easily walk you through this part.

If you have diagnosed that the upper bearing/seal is the issue you will want to check the lower one as well. In my case the failure of the upper bearing resulted in a leak which caused the lower bearing to fail as well. Once you get to actual removal of the bearings you will be well served to have a bearing removal tool. If you do not have one, getting the lower bearing out will be quite difficult. If you have one, pulling the bearing out and replacing it is quite simple. Reassembly is even easier.

Plan on this repair taking several hours. It took me about six hours but that was due to the fact that I spent a lot of time cleaning each part thoroughly before reassembling the unit. I figured that since I had it all opened up I might as well. Had I not done this I think I could have gotten the whole thing done in about three hours.

After the repair the “jet engine” noise that was present during the spin cycle is gone and there is no leak. Given the cost of having a service person come to the house and make this repair I would definitely recommend that you do it yourself. PartSelect made this really easy. This is the third repair I have made to appliances using PartSelect and I have been fully satisfied with the parts and service each time.

James Erickson
Saint Paul, MN

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerRALPH from Eugene, OR

Leaking water and load noise from drum bearing

Following on-line instructions for the dis-assembly. Replaced bearing and seals for outer drum bearing and cleaned and lubed assembly.

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