Limit Thermostat

First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!

Replaced heating element, which had a fuse and high limit thermostat attached to it. Remove 2 screws to pull the bottom cover plate on the dryer, remove 3 screws to pull the blower inlet shroud and then remove 2 screws to pull the heating element off the air inlet duct at the back of the dryer. Remove 2 screws each for the thermostat and fuse. Installed the new devices back onto the new heating element. Power leads to the element are long so you can pull the whole thing out very easily. Couldn't have been any easier to fix.

took off lower front panel was able to reach all parts ...all parts i ordered were perfect matches........

Remove 2 screws on the front panel at the bottom of the dryer & remove front panel. Remove the black plastic "duct" from blower to lint filter by removing 3 screws. Heating element is on the back wall of the dryer in the lower left corner. 2 screws hold the heating element to the dryer wall. Remove these 2 screws. Might be a little tight to get back there. Try to be more patient than me. :) The wires on the heating element are plenty long enough to bring to the front & outside of the dryer. Remove screws holding thermostat & fuse to heating element. I wasn't sure if I needed a new thermostat or not, but it wasn't expensive so I went ahead & decided to put a new thermostat on the new heating element. I re-used the fuse from the old element, but they're not expensive either. Just notice how rthe thermostat and fuse are oriented on the old element & put them on the new element in the same orientation. I had to use pliers to get the wires off the old element's terminals. They were a little tricky to get off, but my dryer is over 10 years old. They've been on there a while. Just move 1 wire from old element to new element at a time. That way you don't have as much of a chance hooking up the wires wrong. Put new element in & everything back together. I vacuumed out the lint in the bottom of the dryer. I ran the dryer for over 30 minutes with no clothes in it to break the new heating element in. You're good to go! You CAN do this yourself. It's not a hard repair to do. Don't buy a new dryer or pay an appliance repair guy! Thanks to PartSelect for quick delivery & posting these instructions from other people!!

I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again. My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.

This dryer required complete take apart to get to heating element, including removal of drum. Multimeter indicated thermal fuse blown. I replaced it and it blew again. I replaced fuse(again), heating element, limit thermostat, and cycling thermostat to eliminate all potential causes. Dryer works like new. Cycling thermostat had been bad for years, but I never knew it, just had to run dryer two cycles all the time.

Remove bottom panel from dryer. disconnect wires off of Limit switch. Unscrew 2 screws, remove old switch. Reverse to install. Important, if limit goes bad you need to replace cycling thermostat or chances are the limit will go out again. (Limit on back wall of dryer). The cycling thermostat is right under the lint screen. Remove 3 wires. Remove 2 screws, remove switch. Reverse to install new cycling thermostat. Toatl cost of 2 parts used 16 dollars and change. Thanks

I watched your video on your website first and followed the simple instructions. I completed the repair in 40 minutes. Works like it was brand new....

`replaced high limit thermal fuse and limit thermostat. I checked the ohns reading and found they were open circuit. Running great now.

First I turned off the circuit breaker, then removed the two screws that hold the front lower panel in place. Once open I removed the 2 screws that held the element in place. (Far back left side) I then pulled the element out leaving all wires connected. Wires are long enough to extend out to the floor in front of the dryer. I simply exchanged the wires one at a time to the new element so no mistakes could be made. Reinstall, reset the breaker, and Instant HEAT. Repaired for under $40.00

Thermostat failed and would not regulate temperature, thus blowing out high limit thermal fuse as it should, after melting the wire connecting the two components. After replacing both items and the melted wire, I cleaned all the vent ducts to assure that they were clear. The appliance then worked as good as new.

Opened top cover at corners to access screws on each side of front. After removing screws from inside of front door, lift the door and panel off of retainer clipson the bottom front corners. Thermal fuse is located at the back left side mounted on the heating element cover. Can be checked for contunity if open. Next to it is the thermaostat limit control. Both should be replaced, even if just the fuse is open. Why? The dryer took long to dry since it was new. This not only corrected the starting problem, but it now dryes faster. Apparently a defective thermostat limit when it was new.

Took the cover off the front of the dryer by removing the two screws that hold the cover in place. Then removed the two screws that held the heating element in place and removed the heating element. Removed the screws that held in the theremostats and then disconnected the two wires and put them on the new thermostat. Rescrewed them in with excisting screws and then put the heating element back in. Put the cover back on and turned on the dryer, and presto it all works again.

I just took the bottom front panel off and the parts I needed to rplace where in the back and very easy to get to . I decided to replace all 3 while I was in there. The parts were not to high, so that is why I did that.

removed the top of unit then the door and front panel. The drum had to come out and the remove the heating element on the back wall. I replace the heating element then the thermal fuse and limit switch. replaced same the reinstalled drum. Kinda tricky with the drive belt but after 15 minutes or so I got it in place. Replaced the door and front panel along with top of unit...plugged back a
in and it worked. my cost to repair with board, and 2 switches 89 dollars. If I called a repairman house call started at 150.