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PartSelect Number PS2167866
This part will cut out at 48 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 33 degrees Fahrenheit.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I had pulled evaporator cover panel to observe and to defrost with hair dryer. I managed to coax it to run for a few weeks with the hair dryer and by recycling the defrost clock. I finally ordered a replacement for the defrost thermostat and the heater. When I replaced the thermostat, everything went back to working okay. The evaporator fan and the old heater are now functioning just fine. Apparently the thermostat needs to be closed for the fan to run. The brown wire used to drive the heater during defrost must also function as the return for the motor in the cooling mode! - Same thing occurred four years ago and I called a repairman through amana - cost over $200 including thermostat and fan motor (which was still running fine - but he recommended that I pick up a new one at amana and replace it my self).
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First I did some research on the internet based upon the symptoms. Found several excellent articles that described my symptoms and their possible causes. I was able to isolate the problem to the thermostat by jumpering around the thermostat. In one scenario I was able to determine that the heater was working and in the other that the evarporator fan was also functioning. That left only one source and it was the thermostat. Ordered the part on-line and was happy to pay the extra shipping fee to expedite delivery. Sears was going to charge me $65 to show up and diagnose the problem. Parts and labor were then extra. What convinced me to look into fixing it myself was the week wait to have a repairman actually schedule an appointment. Two things - the internet is very helpful and Parts Select prices are very reasonable in comparison. Hopefully I will not have to fix anything else soon, but if I do, I will return to Parts Select for my part.
First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two screws to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.
the problem was the evaporator has frozen causing the water line to freeze also.I opened the cover to see the evaporator, verify it was frozen, try to unplug and let it thaw, but it would freeze again. Thought the defrost thermostat was not working but did not verify, order new one and replaced; it did not work. After a long time of experimenting different things I found out that the defrost thermostat was supposed to be clamp to the line. It was not clamped to the line, was just hangin from its wires when I found it. So.....it works now!!! but I don't know what happen in the first place: the clamp fell off, or did it come from mgfr unclamped but happen to work since it was cold new, now getting old and not cold enough to close the thermostat unless on the line? anyway, it works and I decided to keep the part for spare. Hope this help someone else!
Removed the back wall (several screws) of the freezer too get at the thermostat and removed the thermostat and after checking to makes sure I plugged the wires in correctly I replaced the defrost timer by removing the housing that held it in place, which was located underneath the freezer compartment on outside of the unit. That was it!
I was not sure what the fix was on my refrig, so I ordered the defrost timer kit, bimetal defrost thermostat, and the evaporator heater(about 100.00 in parts)I think my entire problem was the bimetal defrost thermostat, as it was somewhat bulged out on the plastic side. The evaporator coils would freeze over--the evap. fan would not work and the cold water dispenser would not work. I did't have time to just replace one part at a time so I ordered all three parts that have to do with the defrosting of the evap. coils. The parts worked and the refrig. is operating fine. Thanks to parts select for a super fast delivery(one day).
I unplugged the unit, removed the freezer racks and removed the back panel to expose the evaporator. I removed the defrost thermostat, unplugged the wires, and installed the new thermostat. I replaced the panel and racks then removed the defrost timer kit by removing the two screws that fastened the cover to the refrigerator and the two screws that secured the timer to the cover. The timer is centered behind the front toe grille assembly. I installed the new timer, replaced the cover, and plugged the refrigerator in. It took several minutes for the defrost timer to advance before the evaporator fan would come on.
took out back panel of freezer compartment , exposed fan and coil thermostat was clipped on to coil, removed ,replaced,each wire one at time , the 2 extra wire that go out back dont go to anything its for factory testing.clipped them off pulled out from back, put wire ties on to keep wires from fan area . closed up . timer is in a metal box under the freezer door pulled off bottom facia 1 screw on metal box remove old timer installed new . everything working great now. no more warm beer
Timer: Removed 2 screws from cover. Removed 2 screws to remove Timer. Installed new Timer & reassembled (15 min).Thermostat: Removed screws from lower panel in the freezer. Removed thermostat from the cooling coil. Disconnected electrical connections. Had to cut 2 wires coming from fridge & install plastic piece provided. Made up all electrical connections (1 hour).
I first removed the panel in the bottom so I could see the fan and the Bimetal thermostat. Also removed back panel so I could see the tester wire and make sure I was going to be able to pull it though the small hole. Removed the old thermostat. Clipped new one on made sure I had reconnected all plugs correctly. Turned on refrigerator and waited about 30 minutes to see if fan kicked on and all was good replaced panels. This was totally great for me, I'm a woman and for me this was very exciting for me to be able to fix it myself without having to call in a repair man or just replace the refrigerator.
replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat & defrost timer and that seem to cure the problem found repair easy and parts were here n lest than two days very satisfied with prompt sening of parts an explanation how to repair. Thank-you!!!!
removed the back panel inside the freezer (several small screws) with a nutdriver. used a hair dryer to melt the built up ice. replaced the thermostat and replaced the panel. very simple repair.
Defrost fan was not coming on, extreme frost build up on coils in freezer compartment. For troubleshooting purposes, bypassed thermostat to see if fan would work. Just cut wires and wire nut them together. Fan worked OK so figured the thermostat was bad. Considered the defrost timer, but it was working OK as I could see it advancing, and there was voltage to the thermostat. (120vac) Anyway, once I received the new part, it simply just plugs in to the existing connectors. The test connector has to be pushed through the back access hole, which is sealed by a flexible putty, make sure to get it sealed good, its re-usable. Only had to remove two pannels, the one on back and the lower one in the freezer compartment, all you need is a 1/4" socket for both. Repair was easy, but it will take some time for the temp to come down. Very important- make sure you clip the thermostat to the coil or you will not cool properly, this is so that the temperature transfer can take place, the cold air is not enough to do it.
I removed the panel to gain access to the condenser and found it to be a solid block of ice. I ordered the 2 parts, I suspected and they arrived in 3 days. I replaced the parts and let it run for 48 hours. All is well and the frige gets colder than before.
The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.
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