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PartSelect Number PS2167006
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I removed the two screws that hold the timer cover in blace, then I removed the the two screws that hold the timer onto the cover. I was then able to unplug the timer, and reverced the process to re-assemble the timer. Unfortunately.....replacing the timer, did not solve the problem. My refridgerator still freezes up every other day or so. It will eventually thaw, and work for a few days, but then freezes up again.
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I removed the panel to gain access to the condenser and found it to be a solid block of ice. I ordered the 2 parts, I suspected and they arrived in 3 days. I replaced the parts and let it run for 48 hours. All is well and the frige gets colder than before.
Removed timer kit (this was the second time for this part)/ replaced - this is a fairly simple job and take 5 minutes. The defrost thermostat take about 10 minutes to get to and take out the old one, replacement is a 2 minute job, unplug and replace, the longest part of this job is getting the back of the freezer off and then replaced, but it is fairly simple to do. Total time to diagnose about 15 minutes, replacement parts arrived in 2 business days, replacement time 15 - 18 minutes total. Recommend getting the thermostat and timer together. The first time this happened, only order the timer but I think the problem was the thermostat all along and the time seemed to be operating but when it came on every eight hours it tripped the circuit breaker Not sure which was really the problem, but all working fine now.
The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.
Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.
I took the cover off of the evaperator in the back of the freezer compartment and thawed the ice out with a heat gun. I then replaced the bimetal defrost timer I did have to change one connection as it would not plug into the harness. I found the Defrost timer in the front of the refrigerator behind the filter cover at the bottom. Just one screw and a quick plug in and everything is working wonderfully. no more icing up
Read on Internet that a warm freezer was caused by frost build up on the coils. Took of coil cover in freezer section and verified this. There were two possible sources, a bad Bimetal Defrost thermostat or a defrost timer. I did notice that the defrost thermostat top was bulging and suspected it was the problem. However, since my food was rotting, I did not have time to order the defrost timer if the thermostat was not the issue... so I purchased both parts. The only issue I had with installing is that the defrost thermostat wires ended up going through a tight sealed opening in that back wall with cooling lines. At the end of the new defrost thermostat there was a connector that would not fit through the opening. After taking off the back cover panels, I discovered that the wires were just hanging out the back unconnected with a label of "Factory Test". So, I just cut them and pulled the wire out. Then I did not bother to run the new defrost thermostat wires through and just tied them up with supplied zip tie. Problem was fixed... never needed to install the defrost timer kit.
I replaced the defrost timer, and then the defrost thermostat. I diagnosed these two items because it would get cold/freeze great for about 12-24 hours and then would start to warm back up. I pulled the cover off that covers the evaporator coil and found it to be frosted up. This told me that the defrost timer probably wasn't working properly. Decided to replace the defrost thermostat while I was in there as a precaution. It was much much cheaper than having to replace a side by side!!
First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..
removed cover in back of freezer and observed that defrost cycle seemed to happen too often. In comparing the existing part # with the factory part, I determined that possibly the wrong part was installed previously. (it had a 6 hr cooling cycle with a 45 min defrost...spec said I should be 8 hr cool & 20 min defrost) I did research on applianceguru.com... well worth the 5 bucks! I ordered a timer & thermostat & purchased a special refrigerator brush to clean the coils on the bottom. Cleaned the coils, replaced the parts in about 15 minutes and WA-LA! the freezer started getting really cold, but the fridge wouldn't get below 55. but it FELT cold! I swapped thermometers with the freezer & found out the thermometer was faulty!!! I now have the cool control backed down to 5/7 & freezer to 6/7. temps are freeze 0 and cool 40. works better than since we bought home 5 yrs ago! research & troubleshooting took a bit of time, but by the time I ordered parts I felt very comfortable I had the right parts. All said, cost me about 40 bucks instead of probably $200 from tech... schematics from partselect.com were very helpful as well!!
This is easy. Remove lower vent in front of frig to change timer. Unplug and put new one in. . . . 10 Min. To change the thermostat remove food, take off back panel, defrost ice with hairdryer and locate thermostat (to the right above coil) remove old thermostat from connectors and replace with new. One connector needs to be spliced cause it does not match. No problem just use old connector and splice and seal with shrink tubing to prevent moisture from connection. In jersey repair guy charges you 100. 00 Bucks to just walk in the door. . . Forget that. Works fine
Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.
for timer-removed front base cover, removed timer from mount plate- r2 timer-reattached plug- installed front base cover. for defrost thermostat- remove all trays and slide mounts-removed back metal cover- remove thermostat and unplug wires. Cut three inch section of brown wire with terminal from old thermostat and replace on new thermostat using an in line splice. reassemble
My fridge / freezer started getting very warm. But, the compressor and condenser fan were operating. I chose the defrost timer from the parts select suggested list. I took it apart and noticed the contacts were in bad shape. I validated this with my dvm meter. By checking continuity across the contacts while turning the timer knob. I also used my meter to check for 115 vac across the 2, 1 connections. . As you turn the timer knob, you'll hear a click. This should close the contacts and connections 4,3 should power up the evap fan. I also pulled the evap fan and powered it up on my test bench. I did this just to validate the timer was the problem. So, if you have a running compressor and condenser fan. Check the contacts on the defrost timer located under the front grill of your unit with a dvm. There is a small gear motor that runs the timer. Don't be fooled by the fact it's running. If the contacts are toast, replace the timer unit. Total time to fix the problem should be 15 mins. Tops.
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