Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz

replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat & defrost timer and that seem to cure the problem found repair easy and parts were here n lest than two days very satisfied with prompt sening of parts an explanation how to repair. Thank-you!!!!

Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.

I took the cover off of the evaperator in the back of the freezer compartment and thawed the ice out with a heat gun. I then replaced the bimetal defrost timer I did have to change one connection as it would not plug into the harness.
I found the Defrost timer in the front of the refrigerator behind the filter cover at the bottom. Just one screw and a quick plug in and everything is working wonderfully. no more icing up

Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

removed bottom dust cover removed four screws that hold the 8 hour timer and disconnected the wiring harness. second I removed the ice maker and the back panel in my freezer and uncliped the defrost thermostat unpluged the two wires and replaced with the new one very simple.

Read on Internet that a warm freezer was caused by frost build up on the coils. Took of coil cover in freezer section and verified this. There were two possible sources, a bad Bimetal Defrost thermostat or a defrost timer. I did notice that the defrost thermostat top was bulging and suspected it was the problem. However, since my food was rotting, I did not have time to order the defrost timer if the thermostat was not the issue... so I purchased both parts. The only issue I had with installing is that the defrost thermostat wires ended up going through a tight sealed opening in that back wall with cooling lines. At the end of the new defrost thermostat there was a connector that would not fit through the opening. After taking off the back cover panels, I discovered that the wires were just hanging out the back unconnected with a label of "Factory Test". So, I just cut them and pulled the wire out. Then I did not bother to run the new defrost thermostat wires through and just tied them up with supplied zip tie. Problem was fixed... never needed to install the defrost timer kit.

My Fridge / Freezer started getting very warm. But, the compressor and condenser fan were operating. I chose the defrost timer from the Parts Select suggested list. I took it apart and noticed the contacts were in bad shape. I validated this with my DVM meter. By checking continuity across the contacts while turning the timer knob. I also used my meter to check for 115 VAC across the 2, 1 connections.. As you turn the timer knob, you'll hear a click. This should close the contacts and connections 4,3 should power up the evap fan. I also pulled the evap fan and powered it up on my test bench. I did this just to validate the timer was the problem. So, if you have a running compressor and condenser fan. Check the contacts on the Defrost timer located under the front grill of your unit with a DVM. There is a small gear motor that runs the timer. Don't be fooled by the fact it's running. If the contacts are toast, replace the timer unit. Total time to fix the problem should be 15 mins. tops.

First let me say the appliance guy said I needed to replace the whole freezer coils within the freezer part but the unit after using a hair dryer would work fine for two weeks then freeze up again. His conclusion of leaking refrigerant did not make sense, nor the noting of uneven freezing, so I figured I would take a chance on logic. The worst part was unloading the refrig and throwing away a boat load of food. Anyway once I removed the back panel that reveals where the defrost thermostat is I simply followed the wires by disconnecting the old and attaching the new until I got to the last two - brown and orange which actually go behind the defrost heater element and disappear below the fan. I cut both & used the adapter peice did a crimp - done. The timer took 5 minutes. Its working fine and cooling fabulously! I wanted to get past the two week point it is now in its 4th and doing fine. By he way the cams, thanks to your video took 10 minutes. Very satisfied and will recommend DIY because everyone else seems to want to retire on my dime!

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

I replaced the defrost timer, and then the defrost thermostat. I diagnosed these two items because it would get cold/freeze great for about 12-24 hours and then would start to warm back up. I pulled the cover off that covers the evaporator coil and found it to be frosted up. This told me that the defrost timer probably wasn't working properly. Decided to replace the defrost thermostat while I was in there as a precaution. It was much much cheaper than having to replace a side by side!!

The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.

I was able to change the timer but I unable to change the thermostat. I dont know how to reach.

First I removed the cover to the evaporator in the freezer section and found the coil iced up, then I turned the defrost timer until it clicked into the defrost mode, the heaters came on so I left the timer in the defrost mode to defrost the coil, it stayed on and did not change. The timer motor was bad, I ordered a new part and had to manually defrost the refrigerator by turning the timer. To replace the part I had to first unplug the power cord then pull the kick plate off at the front of the refrigerator and remove two screws that hold the timer in place, then pull it out unplug the electric plug in the new timer secure it with the two screws and put the kick plate back in place. I then plugged in the power cord and the refrigerator came on as is now working great..

removed cover in back of freezer and observed that defrost cycle seemed to happen too often. In comparing the existing part # with the factory part, I determined that possibly the wrong part was installed previously. (it had a 6 hr cooling cycle with a 45 min defrost...spec said I should be 8 hr cool & 20 min defrost) I did research on applianceguru.com... well worth the 5 bucks! I ordered a timer & thermostat & purchased a special refrigerator brush to clean the coils on the bottom. Cleaned the coils, replaced the parts in about 15 minutes and WA-LA! the freezer started getting really cold, but the fridge wouldn't get below 55. but it FELT cold! I swapped thermometers with the freezer & found out the thermometer was faulty!!! I now have the cool control backed down to 5/7 & freezer to 6/7. temps are freeze 0 and cool 40. works better than since we bought home 5 yrs ago! research & troubleshooting took a bit of time, but by the time I ordered parts I felt very comfortable I had the right parts. All said, cost me about 40 bucks instead of probably $200 from tech... schematics from partselect.com were very helpful as well!!