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PartSelect Number PS2162282
This kit comes with three separate thermal fuses and is usually used with clothes dryers that have a fan mounted on the motor shaft. Included within this kit is the high limit (Limit: 258) the gas high limit (Limit: 240) and the gas and electric high limit thermostat (Limit: 300).
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many gas and electric clothes dryers. It is made of metal, and is almost two inches long. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 258 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 178 degrees Fahrenheit.
First I opened the top of the dryer, then removed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat. Then I removed the heating element to gain access to the thermal fuse. Installation was the reverse. I also cleaned out the lint trap on the front of the dryer and also checked the vent duct (it is cleaned every year). Very easy repair.
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First i unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Then I used a flat head screwdriver to lift open the top cover of the dryer. I removed the two wires connected to the thermal fuse and removed the two screws that attached the fuse to the holder. I placed the new fuse on the holder using the two screws. I plugged the two wires back up to the fuse and closed the lid. Be sure to fixed what caused the problem before attempting to use the dryer. I my case there was a massive amount of lint beneath the lint tray which had the vent blocked.
Disconnected power....lifted the top of the dryer to gain access to parts requiring replacement... Unsrcewed two screws 1/4 inch nutdriver....disconnected the two wires...connected the wires to the new part and attached screws...Removed 1 screw from heat element and raised element to get to heat sensor...sensor pops out removed wires and popped new sensor in...replaced wires closed top lid reconnected power source and started dryer
Unplugged dryer.Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.Replaced the heating coil.Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.
After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.
After searching you site for other similar problems, we ordered the part that we thought we needed, it arrived within 3 days, my husband installed the part and the dryer started. The information you have on your site was great, it gives you an idea about what to test before having to call a repairman. There were several people that had the same problem and with their description it was easy to test the fuse. Thanks it saved us alot of money and time. I can't describe how the repair was done, my husband did it, but it was very easy
Popped top open, matched up parts, changed them. Dryer cranked up,got hug from wife. Done life is good.
I googled burning smell dead dryer and read that most often the problem was either due to a clogged lint vent. After checking the power source and the lint vent with no results, was suggested that the thermal fuse needed to be replaced. When replacing the fuse, it is also recommended to replace the thermostat, both come in the high limit kit. After receiving my kit and googling dryer schematics I was able to figure out how to replace the fuse and high limit thermostat. When I first tested it I could still smell a little burning, but it dissipated and works well yet again! I had to replace the drum belt last year, and both times I've done my own repairs it has cost me less than $25 for the parts. Being a female on a budget, I was extremely pleased and proud to have figured out how to do the repairs on my own. I appreciated being able to order the parts as well as the speedy shipping!
Problem fixed with high limit kit. Easy to do other than a little difficult to reach to align parts but not too bad.
Clean out the vent line and filter area with vacuum, and proceed to replace with high limit kit.
First I removed power cable from outlet, then I lifted the top panel and rotate to the backward. High Limit kit took about 10 mins to install. I took a few more minutes to vacuum out all the lint. Dryer is working well.
Took off old parts (High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Fuse) and addition throughly cleaned out lint trap by removing front door panel for easier access to trap lint. This is crucial, if you have too much of a blockage your new thermal fuse will most likely blow again. My dryer now works like a champ again. Thanks .
Web site advised checking thermal fuse, opened dryer top and fuse was bad. Thermal fuse kit had exact parts needed. replaced thermal fuse and high limit thermostat using new ones in kit. couple of screws, a little contortion. worked perfectly. took ~45 minutes to diagnose, 15 minutes to replace parts.***important**** dryer vent was clogged with lint which is apparently usual reason for this problem, so CLEAN OUT VENT HOSE!!!!
I started by unplugging the power source. I took the putty knife to push the two clips on front under the top edge of machine to raise the top. located & removed two screws (one on each side) to remove the front. I removed the door switch so I could then remove front to facilitate a good cleaning inside the lint trap & dryer itself. I then located & removed high limit thermostat. On my dryer model the thermal fuse is located below the heating coils so I removed them & the front bracket they are attached to so I could get to fuse. I removed & replaced fuse & reassembled parts & pieces. Plugged in dryer & success as it seems to run as good as new. Thanks for your quick response in shipment & especially your listing of repair tips. John B.
Pulled the cap off, used a 7/16" socket with 10" extension, lifted the agitator off, cleaned & installed the repair kit, very simple repair.
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