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PartSelect Number PS2162282
This kit comes with three separate thermal fuses and is usually used with clothes dryers that have a fan mounted on the motor shaft. Included within this kit is the high limit (Limit: 258) the gas high limit (Limit: 240) and the gas and electric high limit thermostat (Limit: 300).
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many gas and electric clothes dryers. It is made of metal, and is almost two inches long. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 258 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 178 degrees Fahrenheit.
Open the lid, replaced the small fuse on top( one wire at a time). Removed the heating element, then replaced the lower fuse and re-installed the heating element. That part of the job took 15 minutes. The fuses were blown because the plastic housing inside of the front panel was completely clogged. I took the two screws off holding the front panel on, then the two torque screws on the plastic housing. I cleaned a ton of lint out of the housing and re-assembled.
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i removed the top by gently prying between the top and cabinet after first unplugging the cord. . 1/4" nut driver used to remove the thermal switch from the bracket . thermal fuse was connected with two white wires and immediately below the thermal switch. remove the heating element for access to the thermal fuse. replace parts and reassemble.
When online& found website... trouble shot for problem per previous posts on PART SELECT.GREAT SITE for problem ifo.I ordered parts,they arrived 2 days later and within 1/2 an hour I had our dryer repaired and working like new!!THANKS!!!
I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.
I first made sure there was power to dryer. It was ok so I unpluged the dryer from the socket and afer researching on line I was sure it was the thermal fuse. I check continuity on the fuse and it did not have continuity. So I installed a new fuse and high temp thermostat (they come together)Just lift top of dryer up and back. In the left rear corner is the heating element. On top of the element is the thermostat. On the right side is the fuse it is a round disc with two white wires attached. The thermostat and heating element need to be removed to install fuse (one screw each and lift out of the way ) . Need to check for blocked lint or like I had the white plastic hose had a kink and need replaced with metal lint hose.
Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.
Lifted top from dryer and fuses were in the back of drum just below heating coil. Used nut driver to remove heating coil to gain access to fuses and replaced them. Process was quick and easy. Diagram from this site made locating fuses elementary! P.S. I have no certified experience in appliance repair.This was my first time ever and dryer works perfect.
I just removed 1 screw that held the safety thermostat in and replaced it. Then I removed the long screw that holds the heating element and the high limit fuse in place. Replaced the fuse, cleaned out the lint duct area. Closed the dryer lid and pluged it in, it worked fine.
I (1)unplugged the unit from the power source. (2)popped the top loose at the front corners with a screwdriver. (3)removed the single 1/4 inch hexhead screw holding the thermal limiter mount from the top of the heating element box with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. (4)removed the two wires connected to the limiter. (5)removed the two 1/4 inch hexhead screws that mount the limiter to the holder. (6)replaced the old limiter with the new one. (7)replaced the two limiter holding screws. (8)replaced the wires on the same terminals as they were removed from. (9)removed the screw holding the heating element in the box. (10)removed the element from the box by moving it to the rear slightly, lifting it up on the side the mounting screw is on and withdrawing the holding tab on the other side from the hole it passes through. (11)removed the thermal fuse holder by pulling upward on the thermal fuse mount until the thermal fuse and mount released and lifted them out of the side of the element box together. (12)removed the wires from the thermal fuse. [[>note< wires are threaded through thermal fuse mount]] (13)reconnected wires to themal fuse. (14)there are no bolts holding the fuse to it's mount, so I used a piece of masking tape to hold the fuse in place temporarily while aligning it with the mounting holes in the side of the element box, and snapped the mount, and the fuse into place with a downward motion while holding pressure on the mount in the direction of the box then removed the tape. (15)replaced the heating element into the box by threading the mounting tab into the hole it passes through while holding the element slightly to the rear of the box and lowering into place. (16)replaced the screw that holds the heating element in the box with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (17)located the thermal limiter and its mount on the tab over the top of the heating element box, and replaced the mounting screw with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (18)made sure all wires were secured in the clearance clips provided lowered the top and snapped it into place with equal downward pressure on the front of the top. (19)plugged in the power cord. (20)Tested machine (FIN)
I watched video provided on appliance repair. I followed the steps and exchanged out old parts for new and now my dryer works like a new dryer. thank you appliance repair for fast shipping.
Disassembled the dryer with the help of diagrams provided on the web site. With the aid of an electrical diagram discovered inside the dryer, tested each component with a multimeter until I found the open hi-temp limit switch. Ordered the High Limit Kit because I couldn't find the hi-temp switch separately. After receiving the repair parts I read the enclosed instructions and learned that I needed the additional part enclosed with the hi-temp limit switch after all. Thanks to some forethought by the supplier, I didn't have to wait for the other part to be shipped.
After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.
first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.
I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.
Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier.Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.
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