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PartSelect Number PS2121513
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover,shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Must be ordered separately.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available. The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.
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For the icemaker, I removed the ice tray and loosesned the two attaching screws(1/4"). I removed the lower bracket and then removed the ice dispenser motor cover below the ice maker. This made it easier to remove the wiring harness. After removing the icemaker from the refrigerator, I swapped out the wiring harness and ice detector bracket (wire bail that swings). Hooked things back up and went on to the water valve. All in all about 15 minutes and pretty easy.For the ice valve, you must turn off the water supply, disconnect the power plug and move the refrigerator away from the wall. (Now's a good time to clean out under and behind the unit!) Remove the valve from the base with the 1/4" nut driver. Remove the inlet line(standard hose fitting).Have a sponge handy. Remove and replace the new valve in the bracket by popping the clip off and on the new one. Replace one outlet line and electrical connection at a time (easier to keep track of). Replace unit on base and check for leaks before replacing refrigerator. Other than cleaning, the task took about 20 min. and was simple. The cleaning, on the other hand...
First I removed the three screws that held the element in place. I had a problem disconnecting the plug from the ice maker, but using a small screw driver and pushing in the slot to release the plug finally worked. It took about ten minutes to get the plug out of the old ice maker. One manufacturer error was, not making the electrical wires a little longer to access the ice maker plug better. This is the second ice maker I have installed in the freezer since 2004 and it is rather easy once the plug was removed. I then plugged in the new unit, reinstalled the three screws, pulled off the cover and arm from the old unit, and put them onto the new installed unit, and it was ready to work.The kick plate grille took five minutes to install.The door closure cam kit was installed in fifteen minutes.Everything went in really easy, except for the plug disconnection from the old ice maker.Great do it yourself job done!
removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self
Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.
Calrod element shorted, arc left burn marks in freezer, harness was burned. Replaced icemaker and wiring harness. Shut off arm [wire frame element] replaced, new version of the wire shut off arm does NOT require the old plastic ice level sensor to be installed on the new shut off arm.
Part received was what I needed. There was one issue--the 'feed' opening to receive water and direct it into the ice tray was a side feed and what I needed was a back feed. That means I had to do some exchanging of parts to make it work. That exercise took more time that the actual installation.
After checking the water valves ordered new ice maker. received the part three days after ordering! Clearing out food, removing the old one and installing the new unit took under 15 minutes. Everything went fine.
I removed the old ice maker and during the short disassembly noticed a burned out connection to the heater element that allows the ice to be broken free of the tray and dumped into the bin. Part Select had a new unit to me next day! I had watched their short install video, and read some of the user comments, already. Re-installing the new unit was a snap, and just as the video had described except for the mount bracket. The only thing that concerned me was that the new unit did not immediately do anything. I began to investigate and found that the flexible water "chute" connection had ice in it! I unplugged the refer, unscrewed the water filter and drained it. I disconnected the water feed on the outside back of the unit as well to make sure water could flow easily to the ice maker port. I filled the water filter with boiling hot water and replaced it, I plugged in the refer, and reprogrammed the date and time. Several hours later I checked the ice maker and it was -- making ice!
First turned off the water and unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the old ice maker by first removing the side cover plate and then next removed the ice level detector. Remove the screws that hold the ice maker in place and rotating it somewhat soas to gain access to the wires and then unplugged them. Next I had to modify the way the water comes into the new icemaker by adapting a CPVC street ell to fit into the hole on the side and then hook up the water supply. Installation is just the reverse of removal.
Pull refrigerator out from wall to shut off water and power. Remove ice bin, pulling front down then out. Remove screw at bottom of icemaker, then pull down to release two clips, Pull out a couple inches to get hand behind icemaker to release wiring harness connector. (squeeze top and bottom to release clips). Remove unit. Remove wiring harness and wire bail from old unit and install on new unit. Reverse steps to install new unit. Make sure ice bin is fully inserted, or unit will not function.
installed replacement ice maker kit. 1st removed power. next loosened 2 upper phillips screws. then removed lower phillips screw and lifted and removed old ice maker. released wiring connector and pulled entire unit out of freezer. then i reversed the procedure to install the old unit. check youtube for instructional videos.
Unplugged the power, removed old icemaker by removing 3 screws and unplugging a small wire harness Then i moved the wire harness off the old one to the new one, moved the end cover over to new one and plugged the harness back in and screwed it back in and turned it onALL FIXED!
Replaced ice ice maker usingAll of the instructions on the website.Very easy. A couple of the screws I hadTo feel for because I couldn't gety big head In the freezer far enough to see them.Very simple and only took about 15 minutes.
Replacing the ice maker was the easy part, next morning still no ice so called repairman, replaced fuse in wiring harness, next morning still no ice, called repairman again to find out that thermostat in brand new ice maker is bad, had to reuse old thermostat to make new ice maker work so could not return it to partselect.com. New ice maker cost $108 and repairman $90, expensive lesson learned.
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