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PartSelect Number PS2085070
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad. You will need a 1/4-inch nut-driver and a 5/16 nut-driver. Open the oven door and pull the door off the hinges to completely remove. Pull out the racks. Using your 1/4-inch nut driver, take out the screws at the bottom rear end of the oven, which will allow you to completely remove the bottom. Unscrew the nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove the igniter with the 5/16 nut driver. You should now have access to remove the old igniter.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I unplugged the power to the stove first,I removed the racks and cover plate at the bottom on the oven. Located the 2 screws holding the element igniter in place. I pulled the stove forward and removed the back cover plate and unplugged the old element.Installed the new element and tested the igniter, special note my oven would not ignite the propane with the cover plate not first being installed. The igniter glowed but would not ignite fuel.
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After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on. Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out. After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem. After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.
I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .
Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.
I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.
He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.
It took all of 10 mins. Open oven door slightly lift to remove.took out shelves and bottom of oven,lift at back to remove.Two screws hold the Igniter, was able to pull the connector into the oven to change. Oven works great!
First i removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the wire out of the hole and disconected the plug. then plug in the new one, put the two screws back in, and checked it to see if it worked,It worked like a new one! So as my reward my wife baked me cookies!
This is simple for most people - unscrew and remove the bottom oven floor pan. There is the igniter, removed with two screws with a 1/4 nutdriver. However, my problem was that when I unclipped the old igniter, I dropped the over part of the connection, it fell down the hole, through the insulation, to the bottom of the stove where the wiring is. I had to pull out the stove to get to the connection, push it back up the hole to the oven, then install the igniter. My advice: do no lose your grip on the oven wire whatever you do. Otherwise, it was a snap, even for a klutz.
first I removed the 2 screws that mount the element. then removed the lower drawer and loosend the screws that hold the shield in place and removed the shield. unpluged the igniter then replaced the igniter. shield back in place and tightened down the element. repair complete. Note don't handle the black portion of the igniter. to replace the oven light simply remove light cover with a flat blade screw driver and pull out the bulb. It couldn't be easier. Do not pay a repairman for these two simple fixes.
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