Electronic Clock Control Board

Removed the 4 phillip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel (and you probably could skip this step).
Next, I removed the knobs from the front of the display panel.
Then I removed the 4 phillip head screws that were located (1 each) behind the knobs.
Finally, I removed the 4 hex head screws from the bottom of the front panel.
You caan then remove the panel a few inches and remove the two cable connectors.
The trick part is to get the flat ribbin cable disconnected. If you squeeze the two small tabs (one on each end of the connector), the connector moves up and spreads open to CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable.
The clock assembly has just two hex head screws holding it in place. Remove them, and reassemble everything in reverse.
If you did everything correctly, you should have a very bright stove clock again!

Was about to spend 2000 on new oven and decided to check here. At least 15 stories with same problem and solved. Add one more.

Only thing new to me was ribbon connector. Didn't really pay attention when I disconnected from the old assembly. When you squeeze the ends of the connector, part of the connector itself rises up to release the ribbon cable. Remember this when reinserting the ribbon cable on new assembly. If I hadn't followed the "If you have to force it, it ain't right" rule it could have gone bad.

First I turned off the electricity to the stove.
I then removed the 4 burner dials from the front panel. Then I removed the 8 screws under the front panel. Removed the triangle side pieces - 1 screw each. Slowly pulled the panel down and out and turned it face down so there was easy access to the back of the digital clock. Unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the clock and replaced it. New clock worked perfect. NOTE: Included in the repair - I cleaned and repainted where there was grease and rust.

The hardest part was learning how to access the electronic clock assembly. Once I figured that out the rest was easy. Finding your web site to locate parts was great. Having the esploded diagram for the Jenn Aire was very helpful.

FIRST I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE BAKE ELEMENT. I THEN PULLED IT OUT FAR ENOUGH TO DISCONNECT THE TWO WIRES, AND REVERSED THE PROCESS TO CONNECT AND SECURE THE NEW ELEMENT. I THEN REMOVED THE SCREWS LOCATED UNDER THE CONTROL PANEL THAT HELD IT IN PLACE. I REMOVED THE WIRING, 3 CABLE CONNECTIONS, FROM THE CLOCK CIRCUIT BOARD, AND THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING IT IN PLACE. I INSTALLED THE NEW CIRCUIT BOARD, AND RECONNECTED THE WIRING, AND RETURNED THE CONTROL PANEL TO ITS PLACE.
THE WIFE WAS UPSET THAT SHE HAD OFFERED TO DO SOME OF MY CHORES WHILE I FIXED THE OVEN WHEN SHE FOUND THAT IT HAD ONLY TAKEN ME 10 MINUTES TO MAKE THE REPAIRS. THE PARTS WERE A PERFECT MATCH, AND THE JOB COULDN'T HAVE GONE ANY SMOOTHER.

I did this job myself, but it might be handy to have a helper to assist in holding the control panel during unplug and replug stages of the process. Also strongly suggest you read through these and other posted instructions BEFORE getting started.

Kill Circuit Breaker Power To Unit.
Pull Four Burner Control Knobs off front panel.
Unscrew Phillips Head Screws from under each knob. (Be careful not to strip screw heads, I applied pretty firm pressure on screw driver to avoid stripping).
Open Oven door.
Remove 4 Phillips screws on trim piece under control panel and remove trim piece.
Unscrew 1 small Phillips screw on each side of panel to loosen plastic side trim pieces.
Use socket to remove 4 hex head screws holding control panel in place.
Gently pivot control panel top downward to access the circuit board panel. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW CONTROL PANEL TO HANG BY FRAGILE CONNECTING CABLES!!!
GENTLY unplug the two white connector cables from the board. There is a locking tab on both that you can release with a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver while gently pulling the connector upward. (These connectors snap to lock more easily when you eventually re-assemble to the replacement board).
VERY GENTLY unplug the ribbon cable. This was a bit confusing to me at first, but if you gently squeeze the two very small tabs on both sides of the black connector, you can gently raise the center body of the connector upwards about 1/8 inch. (You might find it helpful to practice how this mechanism functions on your replacement part BEFORE you do the disassembly, it's really pretty simple once you see how it works). This will take the gripping pressure off the ribbon itself and you can gently wiggle the ribbon out free from the connector taking note of the two very small alignment holes in the ribbon connector as you do so.
Now with all cables free use a socket to remove 2 hex head screws holding the circuit board to the control panel.
Now install the replacement board by simply doing all above in reverse. Take care to line up cable connections to the board properly, noting the two alignment holes in the ribbon cable to tabs in the black connector. All three connections should snap in easily without undue force.
Your range display should be good as new.

Removed 4 screws holding trim panel in place. Removed 4 screws on underside of clock panel

Pulled panel out slightly and disconnected the 2 electrical strips

Removed 2 screws holding clock assembly

Disconnected the ribbon circuit tape-push down on the holder tabs and simultaneously pull up gently on trhe ribbon.

Connect ribbon to new unit. Screw unit to panel.
Reconnect electrical strips and reinstall in reverse of disassembly.

Very easy to accomplish

The first thing I did was to turn off all of the power to the range. Then, I removed all of the screws and unhooked the front panel from the range. Then, I rolled the front panel upside down to get access to the wires. I then proceeded to disconnect all of the wires. After that, I removed the circuit board from the panel. Obviously, I just had to reverse the procedure to install the new circuit board. It was one of the easiest jobs I have had to do.

Piece of cake. First, turn off the power to the stove. Then, I removed four hex head screws on the bottom (above the oven door) and four phillips screws underneath the burner knobs (knobs pull right off). The entire assembly then came loose and I laid it facedown on the stove top. The clock control was easily accessible. I unplugged two electrical connections and a ribbon which "unplugs" easily by squeezing the ends and pulling up on the ends. Only two hex head screws hold the clock assembly and I removed them.

Then, it was only a matter of reversing everything I had done. The new clock light is brilliant.

Turn off the power! Removed 4 phillip headed screws from beneath panel, (not the smaller phillip head screws at the each end). Gently tilted out the control panel, disconnected the wire harnesses, removed hex screws attaching clock assy to switch membrane. Cleaned a few items before re-assembly. put everything back together... You'll be surprised how bright the new assembly is...the old one gradually dimmed to the point it couldn't be read.

Very easy to locate parts on your web site. I also ordered new burners and a new control pad for the front. I think I will get 10 more years out of this stove. It's like new. I will keep this web site in my favorites list. Thanks Moe

The parts came with no instructions, we started to take off , the front panel , finally took off the 4 screws under the panel, then the two small ends caps on either side. the only problem we had after being carefull to study the part as we took it off , was the ribbon strip, that stayed connected to the stove. after we tried to put all back together, the exhaust fan kept coming on. There are two small
holes that need to be aligned in the replacement part. also to get the strip out and back in you need to press and pull up on the small black notches on either of the strip.

i'm writing this several days after installling parts and from memory so forgive me if i miss a step or get the # of screws wrong.

Clock assembly replacement was very easy. Open oven door and remove screws just below the display panel, remove burner knobs and remove the 2 screws hidden by the knobs, remove the 2 screws holding the side triangular pieces (1 screw for each side). you may need to pull range out and away from the counter to remove the triangle pieces. remove the display panel, flip it over and remove 2 screws holding clock assembly. gentle remove the ribbon cables from the old assembly and then perform everything in reverse to reassemble.

Replacing the igniters was more difficult and took up the bulk of the time. Warning: find some way to test the spark module first. I replaced both igniters (1 wire was broken so it needed replacement for sure, but the other igniter may have been good...) and they still do not work. I'm waiting on delivery of a spark module.

remove all burner stuff (grill, burner assembly, etc.), then remove the top of the stove, there are 2 screws on each side and several in the back, there are also screws around the inside rim of the burner pans. also remove the panel on the back of the stove, this allows access to the spark module. gently lift the burner pans, reach underneath the pan and unscrew the nut holding the igniter in place. fortunately mine were easy to unscrew and i could do it with my fingers, getting a wrench underneath would have been a challenge. unhook the igniter wire from the spark module and remove the old igniter. install new igniter in reverse and reassemble.

Thanks to JP in customer service.

TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE STOVE at the breaker box!
I had to pull all the burner knobs off (4ea) and remove the screw under each one. Then open the oven door and remove the screws holding a trim piece on and the hex head screws holding the "touch pad panel" on (was also held on by the screws I had already removed from behind the knobs) 1 smaller screw at each end (total of 2) under there hold the plastic trim on that needs to be moved slightly to let the panel come out. (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE) You hang the panel in the 2 slots provided and remove the old display unit. Gently unplug the 2 wire harnesses and ribbon that actually connect the touch panel to the display PC board. Look for the 2 small holes in the ribbon that will line up with the female part on the board. A piece on the board where the ribbon plugs in will slide up a little and allow you to plug the ribbon in and then push it gently back down. Finish putting it back together and turn power back on at the breaker box. Works perfectly.

Shut off breaker! Important as switch connectors can easily come in contact with range when dropping control panel out of range face. Removed 4 screws underneath control panel & above oven door. Panel drops out easily. Removed end caps (4 small screws). Reinstall end caps on new touch-control panel. Removed screws from old circuit board/clock to instal new circuitboard/clock on new touch-control panel. Attach ribbon cable from touch panel to circuit board (easy connector, lift ends of connector to raise shim-like piece, insert ribbon, push shim-like piece back in). Remove 2 star screws at each switch(x4) shaft on old panel. Reinstall switches on back of control panel, reinsert screws from front to each switch. And extra set of hands is handy to hold panel while positioning switch and driving screws. Return reassembled control panel to position, drive screws in underneath. Turn breaker back on. Done.