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PartSelect Number PS2077217
At 125 volts, this switch will allow for six amps, and at 250 volts, it will allow for 3 amps. Regardless of the voltage used, this switch still operates at 1/4 horsepower.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1st I found the 2 screws that held the control panel in place. Then the switch slid out of it's pocket, 3 wires pulled, and the new one replaced. The best part of this repair is finding this site. Other sites did not have adequate pictures of the switch. On this site I was able to recognize and double check (by bringing the switch to my monitor) before I bought. I bookmarked this site! Thanks![PS. I revised my story, but would give you guys more like 4-5 stars! ]
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Extremely easy.First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!
I first turned off the power to the range. The switch was housed inside a control panel in the front center part of the range. Two screws were removed and the housing was lifted forward and then off The switch was held in place by metal friction washers. Those were removed by a screwdriver and then the switch slide off the posts that they were attached to. The switch had two wires and I simply replaced the wires onto the new switch and placed the switch back onto the posts. The friction washers were pressed back over the posts to hold the switch in place and then the housing was screwed back into place.
Turned off power to range top. Two screws to lift the control area. One snap on was burned off. Removed tab from inside same. Used nut driver to remove switch. Taped wires and restored control area. Power back on. Went to computer and got website for Partselect. Found description of part got me to several choices. The range is 25 years old. Selected a switch that seemed close. It arrived in two days. Redid the same steps. Some file and drill work required to make switch fit. Screwed switch in place. Untaped snap connectors and attached to switch. Checked for function and and restored control area.
removed two screws under fan cover at end of stove knobs. raised panel with knobs up and removed two nuts that held fan switch housing. installed new switch and moved power connections to new fan. (note: Killed power to range top prior to any repair action)
First I located the proper breaker in my electrical panel to turn off the power to the cook top. Then I removed the two screws that hold the housing of the burner knobs and fan switch and lifted it up as much as the attached wires would allow me. To replace the Infinity Control Switch I removed the two "star" head screws from top of housing (under knob) which allowed me to pull the switch off of housing. I pulled off each wire, one at a time, and attached them to the identical place on the new control switch. With all the wires reattached I installed new switch into hole and replaced the 2 screws. To replace the fan switch I removed the 2 nuts on back of housing which allowed me to drop down the switch, swap the wires onto the new switch and place it back onto the bolt posts and reattach the nuts. Finally I turned the breaker back on and tested both new parts to make sure the problems had been corrected. Cook top works perfectly now.
1st removed 2 screws & removed 2 leads ( then the fireworks started/ did not know the power was still in the leads), so removed the power. On the net picked a fan sw. from a picture & ordered it. The service was swift but the part was wrong ( had 3 contacts rather than 2/ I thought by this time they made one sw. for 2 purposes) WRONG.I called in to explain my problem & Susan M. helped me with the right part & excellant service. Thank you Susan.
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