2064175-1-S-Whirlpool-65889-4-Run Capacitor
2064175-1-S-Whirlpool-65889-4-Run Capacitor 2064175-2-S-Whirlpool-65889-4-Run Capacitor 2064175-3-S-Whirlpool-65889-4-Run Capacitor http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/21384.gif

Run Capacitor

PartSelect Number PS2064175

This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Fridge too warm.
  • Noisy.
  • Clicking sound.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Too warm.
  • Compare At

    $45.58
  • You Save

    $7.60
  • Your Price

    $37.98
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 21 reviews What's this?
 

24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerJean from Fremont, CA

Doesn't get cold at all and freezer was warm condenser wouldn't run

removed all 6 screws in back of fridge. located the condenser the relay was a white like circut to the left of the unit. The entire pience comes off easy using a flat screw driver to pry it off the pins.
The replacement came in 2 pieces insted of 1.
I replaced the relay and then the overload reconnected the wire harness back the way it was before. The new relay has a larger connector prong for the live wire so the kit comes with a jumper wire so the original wire harness can be used without splitting the cabel made the repair very easy. Also the new capacitor is bigger and better so I replaced that as well. The capacitor makes sure the relay gets stable current so its good to have a working one.

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24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerRodolfo from South San Francisco, CA

Refrigerator stopped cooling

Problem: My Maytag side by side door refrigerator just stopped cooling and has to discard all frozen items after I discovered being away for 3 days. First, I went to my computer and read some of the repair stories at Part Select “Need help with your repair?” and installation video guide.
1. I ordered the Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Board (ADP) - followed the procedures how to disconnect and installed the new part. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem and only warm is coming out.
2. I ordered the Defrost Heater Thermostat Assembly - removed the old and replaced with new assembly. Again, warm air coming out. Meanwhile, I kept on hearing “clicking sound every few second” not knowing where this coming from. Again, at Part Select, I read the story about it and I ordered the
Run Capacitor and the Overload/Relay with Capacitor. Soon as I opened the parts and tried to match it from the part at the back of the refrigerator and to the part from the compressor, I have discovered that they are not in compatible with the original parts from my Maytag Refrigerator and cannot be installed. And so I contacted (Email) Part Select customer service (Jeanette) if I could return the unused parts and had provided me the “Return address and the Reference Number”. This time, I gave Jeanette the Maytag Model and Serial numbers and asked where I could find this on my refrigerator and make the necessary repair and came back with the diagram and located #4 to the compressor. Ordered the correct part# PS2004058.
3. Upon receipt of the part above, I was puzzled, in the plastic container are four parts, included a plastic cover. I have not given up, I removed the original part encased in white plastic container pulled straight off the compressor and examined it closely. Before detaching all the wiring, I also noted before disconnecting from wire harness and read the Diagram/Instruction Sheet provided.
4. From the four new parts provided, installed the Overload Terminal, bottom part on Compressor with one terminal to the Blue wire. Connected White Jumper to the old harness. Lastly, I plugged the PTC Start Device (two terminals) above the Overload Terminal on the Compressor with the proper wiring as I previously noted and installed the electrical cover. “Plugged in the refrigerator to the power outlet”. To test the result, I left a glass of water inside the freezer and a bottle of wine into the refrigerator. The result - I checked after 2 hours, the water was frozen and a cool wine. “Little frustration included here, as I am not an electrician.” But now, I could say, I fixed it, and very proud of this accomplishment.
Thank You, PartSelect and to a great Customer Support!
Safety Note: Always make sure to unplugged the refrigerator (power off) prior doing the necessary repairs.
Rodolfo Julao/S. San Francisco, CA

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18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

Customerkeith from sarasota, FL

Compressor not cycling on/compressor not pumping refrigerant

Using a nut driver I removed the lower back panel to gain access to the compressor.Removed a clip that held Run Capacitor and Overload Relay in place on the compressor.I removed the capacitor first then pulled the relay off from the compressor.Then I unplugged the wire harness from the relay.This job is very simple if you have original replacement parts in hand to re-install.PartSelect provided me with the exact replacement parts...
Update: My refrigerator has been running 6 weeks now.Soon after I sent the note above I had a Technician check for refrigerant in the system.There was none!The Technician,who replaced my evaporator-heater in November failed to plug properly the port on the compressor.So,this thing is now running better than before.It now makes ice in the same container at the same setting,in 6 hours instead of 8 hours.

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15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerGreg from Ellisville, MO

Clicking noise every 1 minute - refrigerator ran continuously

unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).

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15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Run Capacitor

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerNathan from Garland, TX

Overload relay switch/bad compressor--buzzing sound, ends with click, retries

Remove back cover. Disconnect power. Pull out overload switch off compressor. Remove capacitor. The overload switch i ordered came with instructions. What took the most time was figuring out if i dared installing it the way i thought best. The instructions, in my instance, were incorrect. My overload switch didn't have a terminal #1. Long story short, i looked at the circuit diagram it came with, and based on process of elimination based on terminal sizes, I put it together. But the instructions weren't accurate. All in all for the average DIY, not a bad repair at all. I am still afraid that my problem is the compressor, b/c even after the new part is installed it still occasionally tries starting but can't, and keeps retrying until it does. It is either a faulty relay switch or a faulty compressor. We'll see which one wins.

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